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Smallest airgun silencer available.

Have you looked into one of the Buck_Rail compensators that are sectional? They are modular and can be unscrewed to shorter lengths. I have not tried one, but you may want to check those out. I have their one-piece model and it works good.
 
Have you looked into one of the Buck_Rail compensators that are sectional? They are modular and can be unscrewed to shorter lengths. I have not tried one, but you may want to check those out. I have their one-piece model and it works good.
Have you looked into one of the Buck_Rail compensators that are sectional? They are modular and can be unscrewed to shorter lengths. I have not tried one, but you may want to check those out. I have their one-piece model and it works good.
I've been thinking about trying one as well. I also have some of Buckrails one piece units and they work great. I think the modular is a little more pricey around 80 bucks so I've been holding off.
 
Last I checked, I never saw a Price? I heard that most were going to the outfit that does the Benjamin Warranty work? And he had a special on something that included the suppressor? I can't remember. But they were always out of stock.
 
Subjectively, the 0dB 110 has the best quiet-to-size ratio that I have used so far. I just took mine apart yesterday to prepare it for painting. The design is really interesting, kind of complex and over-built while being minimalistic. If that sounds confusing, then I descibed it right. I can't figure out why it works so well, from looking at how it is made, but it is. Another thing about it is that I always thought it was a little bit heavy for its size and the reason is a steel vented spool inside, which is very industrial looking. There were even burrs on it, but it doesn't touch any metal anyway. it just holds felt in place and creates a passage. For the life of me, I could not remove the rear cap. I tried as hard as I dared, and it didn't budge. The screen didn't want to come out either. Definately different from just a bunch of baffles or a solid core. When I think about how complex the STO internals are and then look at this, it really doesn't make sense how it is so much quieter. You certainly have to try everything you can, on your gun, there is no other way to really know.
 
Subjectively, the 0dB 110 has the best quiet-to-size ratio that I have used so far. I just took mine apart yesterday to prepare it for painting. The design is really interesting, kind of complex and over-built while being minimalistic. If that sounds confusing, then I descibed it right. I can't figure out why it works so well, from looking at how it is made, but it is. Another thing about it is that I always thought it was a little bit heavy for its size and the reason is a steel vented spool inside, which is very industrial looking. There were even burrs on it, but it doesn't touch any metal anyway. it just holds felt in place and creates a passage. For the life of me, I could not remove the rear cap. I tried as hard as I dared, and it didn't budge. The screen didn't want to come out either. Definately different from just a bunch of baffles or a solid core. When I think about how complex the STO internals are and then look at this, it really doesn't make sense how it is so much quieter. You certainly have to try everything you can, on your gun, there is no other way to really know.
I've tried taking my 110 apart, but it won't budge. Do they use blue loctite from the factory?
I want to see if I can make a 3d printed insert, i really don't know what is inside. I bought mine used and was told it was a 22 cal, its actually the 30 cal version.
 
I've tried taking my 110 apart, but it won't budge. Do they use blue loctite from the factory?
I want to see if I can make a 3d printed insert, i really don't know what is inside. I bought mine used and was told it was a 22 cal, its actually the 30 cal version.
Mine doesn't come apart either.
 
I've tried taking my 110 apart, but it won't budge. Do they use blue loctite from the factory?
if it was blue lactite it would come apart even red should be able to come apart may a little heat?
but
Is it threaded together or pressed?
if they dont want it apart they can machine that with minimal if any clearance warm it and put it tougher and it will be there?

and heating wont help because you would be heating both parts both swell and your in the same boat. look for a used one on the cheap and pt it in a press.

then you will know how it was made. might destroy it but you would know.

then you could disseminate that knowledge to the rest of us ;o
 
The front comes off somewhat easily if you have the right sized piece of steel. The back has to be red loctite. I had pins in the holes. being held by a vice, and I was using a strap wrench, and no dice. I was uncomfortable going any further w/o resorting to heat, but didn't want to mess up the ceracoat finish either. It would be nice if someone in the know at 0dB would chime in.
 

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