I think that people get hung up on tungsten because it sounds cool and the density. But as someone who literally works with and grinds tungsten carbide every day I can attest that there’s nothing special about it besides the fact that it’s very hard. We just it to “cut” metal but it’s not really “cutting” its pushing. I think that’s relevant because that’s what exactly what it’s doing in the gun.
Obviously tungsten isn’t the same as tungsten carbide but both are extremely brittle. The fun part being that the dust doesn’t lose its hardness. Doesn’t seem like much but all my work clothes have holes in them and my work boots have to be re-laced twice a year because the carbide dust destroys them.
There are something’s in this hobby that I think are superstition but the I don’t think the Tungsten hammer issues is one of them.
Having as much working experience with it as I do I don’t want it anywhere near my expensive imported air rifle haha.
As far as I can tell the tungsten hammer is only .2 grams heavier than the Huma brass one. Ive had my gun up to 170Bar and had no issues opening the valve.
As for barrel harmonics the DRS is not an Impact. I haven’t even put a CF sleeve on the barrel and I get ZERO poi issues. Air-over-barrel does wonders when you have 250 BAR of air pressure around it. Mind you my gun came with the 1:40 twist barrel. I’ve shot 55gr slugs up to 112fpe with great success. Twist rate needs to be faster to go much beyond that. I find the gun won’t stabilize slugs very well after about 61gr.
I know you have the .22 but I think you’ll find the results to be similar.
My tip with slug tuning is go slow. The gun is super easy to tune but it doesn’t tune “quickly.” I find the gun needs 10-20 rounds to really settle after making a regulator change and the HS is very effective. Once you get a velocity you like and then back it out one click at a time… I usually find that I can go back as many as 3 clicks without changing speed (thus saving air!)