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Airgun myths & legends

wolfmangreg

HAM Ranger
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Cold Spring, Kentucky
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As with any pursuit, airgunning has some persistent myths, legends, and questionable nuggets of wisdom. Asking the HAM team to post their favorite examples of airgun related "common knowledge" that you believe, or at least, suspect, is a pile of bull scat. Like honest politicians or one size fits all hats - but airgun related.
Debate is welcome of course, but I humbly request that it stay lighthearted & fun (I'm goofy like that).
Will get us started:

"Cleaning with a bronze brush will ruin your barrel!!!"

No one will ever convince me that this has actually happened with a modern steel barrel. At least not in normal usage scenarios, & with decent cleaning technique.
Myths don't generally spring up out of the ground for no reason though, so I'll temper my stance with a few caveats:
- Have read that some airguns of the past had brass barrels. Bronze brush on brass rifling, long term? Yeah, I can see that becoming a problem. Really no reason to be using a brass barrel these days, though, since the aliens taught us to produce steel from iron ore.
- Crown or throat damage- not from the brush, but from contact with the cleaning rod. Steel rod, no bore guide and/or care taken to avoid contact in the crown or leade? No doubt that could be bad. But it's the rod, & more importantly, poor technique, that causes the damage, not the bronze brush. It's like blaming Sasquatch for those goats that were bled dry in Texas. Clearly, it was El Chupacabra.
- Removal of barrel "seasoning". Barrel seasoning could be it's own topic here, but most of us that have owned a number of airguns have had at least one that took a while to regain peak accuracy after a thorough barrel cleaning. Could be a couple shots, could take half a tin before it's back to peak. Can see where a fellow that hasn't experienced this before would start to wonder if bronze brush cleaning was a bad idea. But it's much more likely that black magic is involved.

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As with any pursuit, airgunning has some persistent myths, legends, and questionable nuggets of wisdom. Asking the HAM team to post their favorite examples of airgun related "common knowledge" that you believe, or at least, suspect, is a pile of bull scat. Like honest politicians or one size fits all hats - but airgun related.
Debate is welcome of course, but I humbly request that it stay lighthearted & fun (I'm goofy like that).
Will get us started:

"Cleaning with a bronze brush will ruin your barrel!!!"

No one will ever convince me that this has actually happened with a modern steel barrel. At least not in normal usage scenarios, & with decent cleaning technique.
Myths don't generally spring up out of the ground for no reason though, so I'll temper my stance with a few caveats:
- Have read that some airguns of the past had brass barrels. Bronze brush on brass rifling, long term? Yeah, I can see that becoming a problem. Really no reason to be using a brass barrel these days, though, since the aliens taught us to produce steel from iron ore.
- Crown or throat damage- not from the brush, but from contact with the cleaning rod. Steel rod, no bore guide and/or care taken to avoid contact in the crown or leade? No doubt that could be bad. But it's the rod, & more importantly, poor technique, that causes the damage, not the bronze brush. It's like blaming Sasquatch for those goats that were bled dry in Texas. Clearly, it was El Chupacabra.
- Removal of barrel "seasoning". Barrel seasoning could be it's own topic here, but most of us that have owned a number of airguns have had at least one that took a while to regain peak accuracy after a thorough barrel cleaning. Could be a couple shots, could take half a tin before it's back to peak. Can see where a fellow that hasn't experienced this before would start to wonder if bronze brush cleaning was a bad idea. But it's much more likely that black magic is involved.

View attachment 22250
Great suggestion for a thread. I can't wait to see the other myths and legends...
 
If you could get pellets to shoot faster it will help with the wind lol. Maybe at warp speed (last time I checked space was a vacuum 👽👾🛸) 🤣🤣🤣
The opposite. Wind resistance, head on or sideways (actually they combine unto a single relative wind ) increases with the square of the velocity. Double the speed, 4 times the wind effect. This is offset somewhat by the shorter time to target, but not entirely.
 
“pointed pellets are superior to domed for hunting”


I call b.s. on these and other gimmick projectiles, my opinion is that there is no substitute for skill (and by that I mean all the work it takes for an individual to achieve and maintain proficiency and consistency with their Airgun, within the chosen environment and a thorough understanding of particular quarry).

I’m not buying into gimmicks expecting superior results, I choose to continuously work on my skills.
 
Pellets and slugs for airguns have to be pure lead to keep from ruining the barrel. Pure lead is 5-6BHN I have taken 10 and 12BHN cowboy action slugs and have scratched them with my thumb nail which is soft as can be compared to steel rifling. These slugs do not hurt the barrel. They are made to shoot at 900fps in pistols and have less drag because they have lube grooves in them and they cost less than half what airgun slugs cost. Round balls were pure lead, but they were also patched and shot at over 1200fps so they would penetrate better. Why would I want to shoot harder slugs. For extra penetration, say for a hog or a deer. I want it to go in one side and tear out the other for a large exit wound and a better chance of getting a blood trail. The harder slug will tend to brake bones and keep going, it will be more forgiving if you hit heavy bones. Will they expand as much? No and that's okey, full expansion that stops at a bone or doesn't penetrate enough to take out the vitals is not helpful.

This will really cause some disagreement. Most people think you should always use HP slugs for large game hunting, and that kind of thinking could really ruin your day. Being airguns you probably won't be shooting over 1050fps so for large dangerous game it might be better to use a harder heavy bullet with a large flat meplat like a full wadcutter to get massive damage and full penetration. Bigger is always better. If you are hell bent on neck shots for large game a harder wadcutter could work better than a soft HP. Same if you think you might want to go with a shoulder shot. When velocity is slow, momentum is your friend. So, if you cannot get the penetration you want with the speed you have, do it with a heavier bullet and if you need even more yet, do it with a heavier harder bullet. You can get close to animals if you are careful. I have mostly still hunted and stalked. I have been close enough to deer twice and an elk once to have been able to hit them with the barrel of my gun and most kills have been within 15 yards. Only one was past 30 yards and that was a deer at around 300 yards with a 30-06. You will always have better results if you get closer or be patient and let them get closer. Keep the wind in your face and let your movement sound natural like nature not steady like a human. Take 3 short steps like a squirrel or bird hopping then stop look listen, then do it again and try to use cover like trees and bushes, animals will not be alarmed by what sounds natural that they hear every day. It is steady walking that will get their attention.
 

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