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Maintenance NEW - Maintenance Section

American Air Arms

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Thanks to the great folks at HAM Community, we now have a maintenance section for members to post info on basic maintenance. This section is for all American Air Arms products; EVOL, HPS, and Slayer.

Please do not post modifications or hacks regardless of their merits here. Any posts that are deemed to promote unsafe or dangerous procedures will be removed or redirected into a what not to do type post and locked.

American Air Arms will monitor and respond as time permits; please remember, your Dealer and PAD (Precision Airgun Distribution) are your official channels for warranty and repair.
 
I know a while back there were a few people having issues with their burst disk and it leaking. I am putting together some spare parts and am looking for the correct replacement.

Does anyone remember what the correct part was so I can order a few?

Thanks
 
I know a while back there were a few people having issues with their burst disk and it leaking. I am putting together some spare parts and am looking for the correct replacement.

Does anyone remember what the correct part was so I can order a few?

Thanks
Per Tom, the best burst disks are from ANS or Ninja.

 
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Thanks!!! Have been scouring the threads and couldn't find them.

Ordered 3 of then, just to have a few spares. And I am sure the next rifles will have the same part.
 
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I went to toms website and downloaded the oring sheet with all the sizes and figured since it took me a few minutes to search everything out I would post it here.

Will someone that is familiar orings and the sizes please double check and confirm I'm not ordering the wrong stuff?

If everything checks out then others can use the links to quickly make their own oring kits for their evols.

C-026-1070-00
1.5x7mm
70 Buna
Gauge, Foster


C-026-1105-00
1.5x10.5mm
Buna 70
Gauge Spacer

C-025-0005-11
Polyurethane 90 Durometer
22 Cal Breech/Bolt

C-025-0008-11
Polyurethane 90 Durometer
Regulator Adjuster & Piston
30 Cal. Breech/Bolt

C-025-0004-11
Polyurethane 90 durometer
Foster Check Valve

C-025-0013-11
Polyurethane 90 Durometer
Regulator Piston,
Valve Body

C-025-0016-01
Buna 70 Durometer
Chamber Insert

C-025-122-21
Viton 90 Durometer
Front Block, Regulator

C-025-122-21
Polyurethane Durometer 90
Front Block, Regulator
(SAME SIZE AS ABOVE BUT THIS IS ANOTHER OPTION BASED ON @Bladebum RECOMMENDATION) if you are having issues with the Viton 90 Durometer then you might want to try this out.

C-025-0117-00
Buna 70 Durometer
Regulator

View attachment 2077
Screenshot_20231002_094704_Drive.jpg
thought this would be easier to find here.
EVOL - Oring help evol
 

Modified assembly procedure for the regulator and air cylinder on original Evol models​

Overview of the long post: On the original generation Evol's, to prevent the threads cutting the o-rings upon re-assembly, first install/push the regulator deep down into the air cylinder so the o-ring is just past the threads. Then screw on the air cylinder onto the receiver, ensuring the regulator is centered as it starts into the receiver's plenum. When the cylinder is fairly tight and the end cap is aligned with the chassis, fill it with a little air to push the regulator in place within the receiver/plenum to seal the system.

On the original Evol model's there is a chance of cutting the large o-ring on the regulator when putting the regulator into the receiver plenum and then screwing on the air cylinder. These thin cuts cause micro leaks and allow o-ring extrusion; both of which I had this week. Upon re-assembly I discovered that a modified installation process prevents this from happening. I disassembled and reassembled the Evol twice to ensure it worked well and to take these pictures.

Words of wisdom recently bestowed onto me about these micro leaks from this cut o-ring: If owner's would not feel the need to take these apart after they are sent out from the factory, then they would not leak...

But alas, I am a lifelong tinkerer and educator. Here's my assembly and installation procedure:

First, with acetone or alcohol, clean all the parts, threads, and surfaces of the old lube and debris. Then lightly lube the new o-rings and/or the regulator grooves and install them on the regulator. I use manufacturer recommended Krytox GPL-205 grease. Ultimox 226 grease is also recommended and used in the factory assembly procedure.

Second, on the clean receiver, lightly lube just the inside of the receiver plenum area where the smaller o-ring will slide into on the beveled edge. (Shown in the picture where the cotton swab sits.)

Third, lightly and carefully apply lube deep inside of the air cylinder on the sealing surface, just past where the threads end. I use my fingertip or a cotton swab and spin the cylinder to get it evenly around in there.

To prevent thread galling and seizure it is recommended by Tom to apply Krytox or Ultimox to the threads as an anti-seize. I've galled threads on other guns using pure silicone grease, and have never experienced galling after using Krytox. At no time should pure silicone grease be used on threads to prevent seize or galling.


Now for the assembly procedure:

Push the regulator strait down into the air cylinder untill the larger diameter o-ring is clear of all the threads and rests on the smooth freshly lubed cylinder. The regulator will be sitting so the small o-ring is just inside the end of the cylinder and the anodized portion slightly protrudes. If you push it in too far, pull it back out some until the big o-ring just contacts the threads. Also, the regulator is likely to sit a little bit sideways and will need to be centered in the cylinder bore for proper final alignment at assembly.

To begin assembly of the air cylinder, hold the receiver vertically and look down at the poppet valve to ensure that it is sitting on the valve. If it is not, lightly tap the side of the receiver with your palm and it should fall into place. Now, carefully thread the cylinder onto the receiver. It is important to ensure that the regulator is centered and starts spinning it's way into the lubed receiver plenum area. When the cylinder is fully threaded on and it's aligned with the receiver and chassis, it is time to fill it with air. The next steps will slowly fill it with air and seal the regulator in place.

Again with the gun kept in a vertical upright position, lightly tap the side of the receiver with your palm so as to align and settle the poppet valve down onto its seat. After this, lightly tap the butt stock down on the floor to ensure seating and slowly fill it with just a little air pressure. A couple of hundred pounds of air pressure will easily push the regulator into place against the receiver flange and seal everything. If air is escaping through the barrel port simply put your thumb over it and lightly tap the butt of the gun on the floor again and this should seat the poppet valve. A high air pressure blast may not seat the poppet as easily, and is harder to seal the escaping air with your thumb too, so I've found it's best to go slow and with back pressure on the port. If hand pumping, initially seal the barrel port with your thumb to seal the whole system and then pump away.
View attachment 2348View attachment 2349View attachment 2350
I hope this procedure helps you guys out.

Edited to remove unnecessary steps.
easier to find here?
 
Thanks to the great folks at HAM Community, we now have a maintenance section for members to post info on basic maintenance. This section is for all American Air Arms products; EVOL, HPS, and Slayer.

Please do not post modifications or hacks regardless of their merits here. Any posts that are deemed to promote unsafe or dangerous procedures will be removed or redirected into a what not to do type post and locked.

American Air Arms will monitor and respond as time permits; please remember, your Dealer and PAD (Precision Airgun Distribution) are your official channels for warranty and repair.
I have a couple of questions for Tom about a Slayer I just received. Serial# 57
If someone could contact me that would be great!
Thanks,
Mark
 
@pan60 where was @Airgun-hobbyist procedure quoted from? I don’t see that information elsewhere in this thread.
Here's the link to the write up I did on it (where pan60 pasted the quote from).

 
Is ballistol good too? Otherwise I will go with break free clp. Although I don’t see how a minuscule amount on the threads could end up in the tube, I’m trying to use whatever is safer near an HPA system.
 
Is ballistol good too? Otherwise I will go with break free clp. Although I don’t see how a minuscule amount on the threads could end up in the tube, I’m trying to use whatever is safer near an HPA system.
Balistol is for cleaning and wiping down the outsides of things. It is a cleaner and protectant. Threaded parts like barrels and such need a good assembly type of light gun oil. Do not put common silicone grease or oil on threads either, as it is not a lubricant and will damage/wreck threads.

Here's a good video showing various gun oils and protectants and their differences and attributes. Each has it's place, none all are for "everything".

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