Panthera FX Panthera/Dynamic Solid Bull Barrel Received

[Billm]

I received my FX Solid Bull Barrel for the Panthera .30 700mm today. To say that I’m less than impressed with what I received, would be a gross understatement.
The barrel arrived in a state of bare metal covered in grease that I’m assuming is to lubricate it and to try and protect it from corrosion while progressing through the supply chain. There is no black finish as shown in all of the FX marketing.
But, I found something even more surprising than the lack of finish. In the videos by both Matt Dubber and FX themselves emphasize the most important feature of the Solid Bull Barrel is the fact that it threads directly into the Dynamic block, providing an extremely secure and stable barrel, unlike older FX barrels that are held by two grub screws. Below are a few photos of the threads on my barrel. These are just handheld IPhone 17 images. Maybe I’ll shoot a few with a FullFrame camera try to capture more detail.

 

[Pumacarl]

Please post whatever any of the reps tell you on this, I'd love to hear it. They're telling us these are so precise that they have to be sold as a unit and yet the threading looks like rookie work. It looks fixable but I wouldn't be too happy about that either. Maybe you'll get lucky with the acccuracy anyway.

 

[Solo1]

Please post whatever any of the reps tell you on this, I'd love to hear it. They're telling us these are so precise that they have to be sold as a unit and yet the threading looks like rookie work. It looks fixable but I wouldn't be too happy about that either. Maybe you'll get lucky with the acccuracy anyway.

Well the bad thing is your screwing that steel into who knows what grade aluminum. I would at least run a thread chaser on that

 

[Billm]

The problem is, I don’t have a thread chaser that size. I don’t even know what the thread is now that I think about it. I don’t fully trust AI, but AI is telling me that it might be saved by a thread chaser, but under no circumstances use a standard cutting die. I can’t see a thread chaser of this size being cheap. It’s hard to see but every single thread is blocked by blobs of melted steel (galling) They’ve overheated the threads to the point that the chips have welded to the threads instead of being flushed away. I’ve done it machining aluminum at the wrong speed, but this is steel and they have machinists. I’m an amateur that’s doesn’t always admit or know my limits LOL. Although FX-USA told me a few weeks ago when solid barrels were going to ship, as they had just received the barrel parts. That made me think they outsourced these barrels.
The AI recommended not attempting to thread the barrel into the block as they were so bad it would never mate. Keep in mind the grip screw socket was cross threaded and when I asked FX about it they passed it on to FX HQ, who responded nonchalantly: yes that’s very possible, probably done at the factory.
It doesn’t excuse the shoddy workmanship, but I can’t get over how accurate this rifle was/hopefully still is with the ordinary liner, carbon tube and two grub screws.
I need @Pumacarl to replace his valve seat o-ring at the back of the valve seat, so that he can advise me if I have to. Now’s about the time my friend @pan60 reminds me that the best machined airgun is an American Air Arms.

 

[pan60]

maybe find a thread file and clean some of that up?

 

[Pumacarl]

The problem is, I don’t have a thread chaser that size. I don’t even know what the thread is now that I think about it. I don’t fully trust AI, but AI is telling me that it might be saved by a thread chaser, but under no circumstances use a standard cutting die. I can’t see a thread chaser of this size being cheap. It’s hard to see but every single thread is blocked by blobs of melted steel (galling) They’ve overheated the threads to the point that the chips have welded to the threads instead of being flushed away. I’ve done it machining aluminum at the wrong speed, but this is steel and they have machinists. I’m an amateur that’s doesn’t always admit or know my limits LOL. Although FX-USA told me a few weeks ago when solid barrels were going to ship, as they had just received the barrel parts. That made me think they outsourced these barrels.
The AI recommended not attempting to thread the barrel into the block as they were so bad it would never mate. Keep in mind the grip screw socket was cross threaded and when I asked FX about it they passed it on to FX HQ, who responded nonchalantly: yes that’s very possible, probably done at the factory.
It doesn’t excuse the shoddy workmanship, but I can’t get over how accurate this rifle was/hopefully still is with the ordinary liner, carbon tube and two grub screws.
I need @Pumacarl to replace his valve seat o-ring at the back of the valve seat, so that he can advise me if I have to. Now’s about the time my friend @pan60 reminds me that the best machined airgun is an American Air Arms.

@Billm,
Bill, sometimes I scare myself with the stupid things that I will try, but you know, we don't have much time on this rock so best to make the most of it I guess. I would actually put on my huge magnifying headset with built in lighting and three separate lenses and use a fingernail file on edge, and here is the important part, take my time. It still ends up taking less time than dealing with who you bought it from, shipping back and forth, and seeing what you get next time. There are still plenty of uneffected threads there that will still do their same job, once you clear out that tiny bit of crap and dings. But, that's just me, good luck with whatever you decide to do!

As far as the valve seat oring goes, I had bought the tool to remove that valve before I even received the gun in the mail. I don't mind freehanding problems that I can solve with patience, but I have found that if specialty tools exist, they were made for a reason, and I get them. They end up being a value to me, because I do all my own work anyway.

 

[Billm]

@Billm,
Bill, sometimes I scare myself with the stupid things that I will try, but you know, we don't have much time on this rock so best to make the most of it I guess. I would actually put on my huge magnifying headset with built in lighting and three separate lenses and use a fingernail file on edge, and here is the important part, take my time. It still ends up taking less time than dealing with who you bought it from, shipping back and forth, and seeing what you get next time. There are still plenty of uneffected threads there that will still do their same job, once you clear out that tiny bit of crap and dings. But, that's just me, good luck with whatever you decide to do!

As far as the valve seat oring goes, I had bought the tool to remove that valve before I even received the gun in the mail. I don't mind freehanding problems that I can solve with patience, but I have found that if specialty tools exist, they were made for a reason, and I get them. They end up being a value to me, because I do all my own work anyway.

I bought the 910tool to remove the cover. It wouldn’t line up with the two holes. The local Harbor Frieight said they had a few different sets of snap-ring pliers in stock. But, when I went down there all the pegs were empty. I ended up using a pair of large needle nose pliers whose tips fit snuggly. It came off easily at the point. The front valve pin o-ring and the delrin pin guide didn’t look seated properly, but that may have been just from pulling the cover off. I have o-rings and the 2 extra valve pins, but not the delrin washer. I’m going to polish the stem on one of the new valve stems and replace it and the o-rings, just because I have them and I’m there. If anyone develops some velocity swings and doesn’t think it’s their regulator, the valve stem is worth looking at. It’s a known issue and my valve stem looks a little rough in places where it might stick.
The next issue is removing the valve seat. The 910 tool is not available anywhere. The valve seat is just held in by an o-ring. I’m starting another thread with more details as a repository of FX repair tips to maybe help future users.

 

[Solo1]

@Billm i remember reading a post on agn about the valve sticking and they replaced the oring with a different kind and it worked better it didnt stick so much as stock. Ill try to find it perhaps you could too

 

[Solo1]

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[Solo1]

It was for a drs but may help

FX - FX DRS Slow Shot - Solved

Hi Folks, I’ve been working for a while on solving the slow first shot issue in the FX DRS. I’ve done various tests and tried different types of O-rings and greases. Finally, after working on it for a long time, I can say that I’ve pretty much solved the problem, as long as the DRS is properly...

www.airgunnation.com

 

[Billm]

@Billm i remember reading a post on agn about the valve sticking and they replaced the oring with a different kind and it worked better it didnt stick so much as stock. Ill try to find it perhaps you could too

I read that too back before I sent it back to FX. I think it may have been on AGN. I think they were saying it remedied “sticking” like the regulators. I’ll find it. BVM just saw your new post Thanks

 

[Auto1191]

I received my FX Solid Bull Barrel for the Panthera .30 700mm today. To say that I’m less than impressed with what I received, would be a gross understatement.
The barrel arrived in a state of bare metal covered in grease that I’m assuming is to lubricate it and to try and protect it from corrosion while progressing through the supply chain. There is no black finish as shown in all of the FX marketing.
But, I found something even more surprising than the lack of finish. In the videos by both Matt Dubber and FX themselves emphasize the most important feature of the Solid Bull Barrel is the fact that it threads directly into the Dynamic block, providing an extremely secure and stable barrel, unlike older FX barrels that are held by two grub screws. Below are a few photos of the threads on my barrel. These are just handheld IPhone 17 images. Maybe I’ll shoot a few with a FullFrame camera try to capture more detail. View attachment 22373View attachment 22374View attachment 22375View attachment 22376View attachment 22377

I wiilfill You in on MONDAY on the SOLID & BULL BARRELS !

 

[Billm]

I wiilfill You in on MONDAY on the SOLID & BULL BARRELS !

Thanks, I can't wait to hear what you have to say.

 

[Billm]

I cleaned the threads the best that I could. But, I’ve given up for now trying to install the Bull barrel. It’s proving near impossible to remove the threaded adapter from the end of the plenum. I’m assuming it’s thread locked. I’ve applied heat using a micro torch and when that didn’t work I used a MAP gas torch. I tried a 2’ pipe as a breaker bar and it doesn’t budge. It has to be remove and replaced with the one that is included with the Bull Barrel or you can’t install the Bull Barrel. The barrel passes through the center of it and into the shroud. It provides the seal between the barrel and the plenum. The original adapter allows the 14mm barrel tube to be used. The new one allows the 20mm barrel to be used. The plan is to put the bull barrel aside and use the original configuration. Now, I have to worry about whether or not the o-rings have melted or deformed from the heat.

 

[Solo1]

I cleaned the threads the best that I could. But, I’ve given up for now trying to install the Bull barrel. It’s proving near impossible to remove the threaded adapter from the end of the plenum. I’m assuming it’s thread locked. I’ve applied heat using a micro torch and when that didn’t work I used a MAP gas torch. I tried a 2’ pipe as a breaker bar and it doesn’t budge. It has to be remove and replaced with the one that is included with the Bull Barrel or you can’t install the Bull Barrel. The barrel passes through the center of it and into the shroud. It provides the seal between the barrel and the plenum. The original adapter allows the 14mm barrel tube to be used. The new one allows the 20mm barrel to be used. The plan is to put the bull barrel aside and use the original configuration. Now, I have to worry about whether or not the o-rings have melted or deformed from the heat.

Boy you’re just not having any luck at all with this gun are you?

 

[Billm]

Boy you’re just not having any luck at all with this gun are you?

No LOL. I’m over the Bull Barrel. I did my usual bore scope of the new barrel and was surprised by what I saw. The liner looked great, but as the Famous Paul Harvey would say: “Now for the rest of the story!” I’m not sure yet of what I’m seeing. What parts are inside your Solid Barrel? I know there’s the outer barrel, the liner and that it uses the originaL threaded barrel jam nut. Is there anything else in there, any small parts etc.?
I’m sure the older gents understand my Paul Harvey reference lol

 

[Solo1]

No LOL. I’m over the Bull Barrel. I did my usual bore scope of the new barrel and was surprised by what I saw. The liner looked great, but as the Famous Paul Harvey would say: “Now for the rest of the story!” I’m not sure yet of what I’m seeing. What parts are inside your Solid Barrel? I know there’s the outer barrel, the liner and that it uses the originaL threaded barrel jam nut. Is there anything else in there, any small parts etc.?
I’m sure the older gents understand my Paul Harvey reference lol

Don’t know never pulled the barrel out more than to check what it was marked as. Pushed it back in screwed on tp with some blue locktite and screwed on barrel nut slid it in the gun

 

[Billm]

The bull barrel is set up so that you pull the liner from the breech a few inches so that you can align the transfer port.You lock the TP in place using the same two grub screws that hold the original transfer port and barrel in place on the original liner setup. But, they are only holding the TP in place for alignment, they don't secure the barrel. FX in a couple of videos explains this and also points out that due to the High Precision machining the fit between the liner and the Bull Barrel creates a vacuum. They demonstrate it by putting a balloon over the muzzle and inflating and deflating the balloon, by sliding the liner back and forth. The Vacuum makes it a little more difficult to pull the liner back at first. When it finally gives there is an audible pop from the barrel. FX kind of explains that it is due to the vacuum being created at the muzzle of the liner, as the tight fit prevents air from traveling between the liner and the barrel to fill the created cavity. Ernest Rowe in his FX Master Class videos mentions that on the previous liner barrel sleeve solution, the space between the liner the carbon tube iand the barrel s not always airtight. I'm not really sure exactly what this is. That is inside the barrel, near the muzzle between the liner (slightly pulled back as required to install the barrel) and the inside of the Bull Barrel Muzzle. First thoughts: it's an o-ring. Second thought: what is its purpose?, Is it supposed to be that loose and easily pinched? Is it where it is supposed to be. lIt looks to me like it seals the liner and barrel near the muzzle. Is it a bumper? I really don't know. Is it ok as is? Why does it look so out of shape? The questions just keep on coming LOL. Is it user replaceable. It may be inconsequential, who knows.

I guess none of it matters if I can't install the darn thing LOL. Gotta love these low cost bore scopes and all the questions they create.

 

[Solo1]

I was gonna say its a backup for the outer oring from tube pressure but the plenum doesn’t run to the muzzleor perhaps it is incase there is a leak at the other end.

 

[Auto1191]

I received my FX Solid Bull Barrel for the Panthera .30 700mm today. To say that I’m less than impressed with what I received, would be a gross understatement.
The barrel arrived in a state of bare metal covered in grease that I’m assuming is to lubricate it and to try and protect it from corrosion while progressing through the supply chain. There is no black finish as shown in all of the FX marketing.
But, I found something even more surprising than the lack of finish. In the videos by both Matt Dubber and FX themselves emphasize the most important feature of the Solid Bull Barrel is the fact that it threads directly into the Dynamic block, providing an extremely secure and stable barrel, unlike older FX barrels that are held by two grub screws. Below are a few photos of the threads on my barrel. These are just handheld IPhone 17 images. Maybe I’ll shoot a few with a FullFrame camera try to capture more detail. View attachment 22373View attachment 22374View attachment 22375View attachment 22376View attachment 22377

Ok here we GO ! Rumor has it being that FX had some issues with their SOLID & BULL BARRELS Tolerances Maching & rust, the blueing process didn't take well , so FX is using some sort of weird name grease to stop the rusting, . per my rumor the Barrels are out source & sent back to FX to pick & choose which ones the are keeping, some type of quality control ? Some liners were getting stuck!. If you think about it now you are introducing grease in the system , for the Barrel is in the PLENUM. Even though the grease is thick & pasty I would question this method. Also like we mentioned here about plenum volume with more to the BULL BARREL taking up more cubic space do to the larger diameter, plenum volume is lost. Rumor has it , that FX will come out with a larger plenum to make up the difference. This is why I think in my opinion, the delay of the BULL BARRELS, not so much for the solids, I think, but again who knows ? Higher reg PSI loss of refresh rate, especially in high power applications. Is. Like I said before you have to think like FX , Marketing , Acessories more Bling = more money. My first Panthera got a leak that could not be repaired, I never took ownership. FX in my opinion is a frail rifle, All air rifles do the same thing , for less & just as good. Marketing , Influencers, Advertising, they do a great job @ this, you don't need the latest & the greatest, but we all do it anyway! LOL IF IT NOT BROKEN-DON't TOUCH IT KISS - KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID NO PUN INTENENED