Break Barrel Mag-Fire Ultra barrel end

[flyfisher]

I have a Mag-Fire Ultra that I haven't shot in about 2 years, I decide to get it out and shoot a bunch of pellets. It's .22 cal but I don't think ti matters for my question. First shot, the insert in the end of the barrel came shooting out. It looks like some kind of air stripper but there are no holes on the sides of the barrel. Now for my question: does anyone know what holds that insert into the barrel housing? There is a rounded tab on the insert that fits into a slot inside the housing but I can't figure out what holds that insert in. There are no threads on it and does not snap into place It does not look like anything is broken.
Thanks in advance
Bill L

 

[flyfisher]

Well gang, apparently I must have been blind when I looked at that insert or just did not look at it carefully enough. It did indeed break. I mentioned that the piece had a tab that fit a slot in the end of the barrel. Well it had 2 tabs and one broke off, the broken tab is still in the end of the plastic barrel shroud, I don't know exactly how it broke. Because it has been hanging on my wall for 2 years.
I have another question pertaining to that insert. Looking in the end of the shroud/barrel, the shroud is solid at the end of the barrel and the outside of the shroud simultes vents but is solid. The insert looks like it could be a type of air stripper but the air would have no place to be vented. I've included pictures to show what I'm talking about.

 

[Pguadalupe]

Well gang, apparently I must have been blind when I looked at that insert or just did not look at it carefully enough. It did indeed break. I mentioned that the piece had a tab that fit a slot in the end of the barrel. Well it had 2 tabs and one broke off, the broken tab is still in the end of the plastic barrel shroud, I don't know exactly how it broke. Because it has been hanging on my wall for 2 years.
I have another question pertaining to that insert. Looking in the end of the shroud/barrel, the shroud is solid at the end of the barrel and the outside of the shroud simultes vents but is solid. The insert looks like it could be a type of air stripper but the air would have no place to be vented. I've included pictures to show what I'm talking about.

The baffles are threaded on to the barrel and the shroud is more of a press fit. You should be able to rotate it around with some force and kind of walk it up. The challenge would be to get down in there to rotate out the broken baffles before you can remove the shroud. The baffles basically lock the shroud in place.

Customer service could hook you up with a new baffle if you wanted the original look. If you take off the shroud and get an aftermarket moderator the barrel is 1/2x20 threads. You will see a small step down in the OD but it’s pretty minimal. I will see if I can find a picture of it or take a picture later when I’m back in the office on Thursday

 

[Pguadalupe]

This is what the barrel looks like when the shroud is removed the arrow points to the step down in OD and I have a moderator screwed into this sample

 

[flyfisher]

Ok I think I got it now. In my picture of the inside of my shroud, that piece that is around the barrel end is actually part of the the piece that that broke out. In other words the piece inside my shroud and the piece that broke should be all one piece. Seeing it in 2 pieces now shows me how crappy that design is with only 2 tabs connecting to the threaded piece. Not sure what I'm going to do, either try to get that threaded piece out and order a replacement.or just epoxy that broken piece in place. So in order to use a moderator, you have to leave the shroud off, correct?
Thank you so much for the explanation. Much appresiated.
Bill L

 

[Pguadalupe]

Yea it’s long 1 piece baffle system. Maybe about 4inches long.

Yes that needs to be removed be you can either replace it or to remove the shroud to add a moderator. You should be able to take 2 flat head screwdrivers and use them to twist it off the threads. I normally use a needle nose on the muzzle to screw it out. So it’s not on that tight.

 

[hameditor]

Yea it’s long 1 piece baffle system. Maybe about 4inches long.

Yes that needs to be removed be you can either replace it or to remove the shroud to add a moderator. You should be able to take 2 flat head screwdrivers and use them to twist it off the threads. I normally use a needle nose on the muzzle to screw it out. So it’s not on that tight.

Great support, Phillip. Thanks!

 

[flyfisher]

Yea it’s long 1 piece baffle system. Maybe about 4inches long.

Yes that needs to be removed be you can either replace it or to remove the shroud to add a moderator. You should be able to take 2 flat head screwdrivers and use them to twist it off the threads. I normally use a needle nose on the muzzle to screw it out. So it’s not on that tight.

Well, I ended up cutting the shroud flush with the broken piece. I could not use 2 screw drivers to get it out because the one side broke flush with the flat part so I only had one slot for a screwdriver, I tried but did not work. I ended up heating up a screwdriver and melting it into the plastic then was able to turn it out to remove it. I cut that piece down so I could thread it on the barrel to keep the barrel centered in the shroud. I shot 4 pellets. Talk about loud, wow.
So 2 last questions. How do I remove the shroud from the barrel? The 2nd question is: with out the shroud is the barrel strong enough to continually cock the rifle? I have an extra moderator. The Barra 1100z uses the same thread size. Thank you so much for your help.
Bill L

 

[flyfisher]

Well, I ended up cutting the shroud flush with the broken piece. I could not use 2 screw drivers to get it out because the one side broke flush with the flat part so I only had one slot for a screwdriver, I tried but did not work. I ended up heating up a screwdriver and melting it into the plastic then was able to turn it out to remove it. I cut that piece down so I could thread it on the barrel to keep the barrel centered in the shroud. I shot 4 pellets. Talk about loud, wow.
So 2 last questions. How do I remove the shroud from the barrel? The 2nd question is: with out the shroud is the barrel strong enough to continually cock the rifle? I have an extra moderator. The Barra 1100z uses the same thread size. Thank you so much for your help.
Bill L

Well today turned into a disaster. I did get the shroud off. I put my Buck Rail 3d printed suppressor on. First shot, blew the suppressor apart at the threaded end, left the threaded insert on the barrel. So at this point I'm going to bit the rifle in a case and wait till I can afford a metal suppressor. Hopefully a metal suppressor will not blow apart. All I wanted to do was shoot a hundred pellets through it because it was on the wall for at least 2 years. I guess the air rifle gods were against me today. LOL

 

[flyfisher]

Well today turned into a disaster. I did get the shroud off. I put my Buck Rail 3d printed suppressor on. First shot, blew the suppressor apart at the threaded end, left the threaded insert on the barrel. So at this point I'm going to bit the rifle in a case and wait till I can afford a metal suppressor. Hopefully a metal suppressor will not blow apart. All I wanted to do was shoot a hundred pellets through it because it was on the wall for at least 2 years. I guess the air rifle gods were against me today. LOL

Up date: I managed to recover from my disaster yesterday. I had the 2 pieces of the broken baffle, I sanded both sides of the brake flat and glued the 2 halves together creating a single baffle that was about 3/4" shorter than the original. I got lucky, I had the tube and adapter from a cheap solar lantern. The adapter was the perfect size for my new baffle. I put the baffle in the adapter till the threaded end of the baffle was flush with the end of the adapter. Then I just put the tube on the opposite end of the adapter. It works, the sound I get now sounds like it did with the factory rifle. I might try putting some thing in the empty tube area to cut sound more.
I did learn something new with the finished suppressor. Room size makes a difference in how loud the rifle is. I own my parents small home. Years ago my dad built an addition on to the kitchen, with a basement addition and a door going to the old basement.My shooting bench is in the newer basement and I shoot diagonally to the corner of the old one. Anyway the room that my shooting bench is in measures 11' x 15', the old basement is roughly 15' x 22'. Now for what I discovered. Because I did not know if my new suppressor would fly apart or not, I got about 8' from my backstop and fired the first shot,. surprised me that the riffle was a lot more quiet than when I fired it from my bench. So in a larger room the riffle sounds quieter than in a smaller room.
Sorry for the long post.
Thanks again.
Bill L

 

[Pguadalupe]

Up date: I managed to recover from my disaster yesterday. I had the 2 pieces of the broken baffle, I sanded both sides of the brake flat and glued the 2 halves together creating a single baffle that was about 3/4" shorter than the original. I got lucky, I had the tube and adapter from a cheap solar lantern. The adapter was the perfect size for my new baffle. I put the baffle in the adapter till the threaded end of the baffle was flush with the end of the adapter. Then I just put the tube on the opposite end of the adapter. It works, the sound I get now sounds like it did with the factory rifle. I might try putting some thing in the empty tube area to cut sound more.
I did learn something new with the finished suppressor. Room size makes a difference in how loud the rifle is. I own my parents small home. Years ago my dad built an addition on to the kitchen, with a basement addition and a door going to the old basement.My shooting bench is in the newer basement and I shoot diagonally to the corner of the old one. Anyway the room that my shooting bench is in measures 11' x 15', the old basement is roughly 15' x 22'. Now for what I discovered. Because I did not know if my new suppressor would fly apart or not, I got about 8' from my backstop and fired the first shot,. surprised me that the riffle was a lot more quiet than when I fired it from my bench. So in a larger room the riffle sounds quieter than in a smaller room.
Sorry for the long post.
Thanks again.
Bill L

Hey! Sorry for the late response. Just catching back up on this.

I'm surprised that the 3D printed Buck Rail moderator blew apart. I've used 3d Printed moderators on high powered PCPs with no issues. The barrel is about 2" shorter than a normal barrel with out moderator. So its definitely strong enough but i wouldn't necessarily cock it by a 3D printed Moderator. You would need one that is designed to come back on to the barrel a inch or 2 and thread further into the moderator. That way if gives you support to use it as a cocking handle.

Other thing to know about suppressors is the pellet weight. The heavier the pellet the quieter the suppressor. Heavier pellets means slower velocity and forces the suppressor to work more efficiently.

 

[flyfisher]

Thank you for that inf. I have a couple Buck Rail 3D suppressors for my 2 Barra 1100Z's and my Diana pistol. With the Diana after about 50 or so shots, it blew in half, BR replaced it no problem, My latest BR 3D was for my 1100Z ,22. That insert was inserted crooked and when screwing it on, it was about 1/4" out of center, they replaced it no problem. BR definitely stands behind their products. Their suppressor that I first tried on the Crossman barrel, I think maybe just could not take the kick of the break barrel. And yes, I do know not to cock it by the suppressor. Time will tell if my diy suppressor/baffles will hold uo or not.
Thanks again for all your help and information. It was very much needed and appreciated.
Bill L