MichaelHunt
HAM Plinker
I'd be comfortable shooting out to at least 50-60' with open sights, I bet you could do 50 yards if you wanted.
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Spring/Piston Hatsan Mod 25 Supertact QE
- Thread starter IAMzehTOASTY1
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- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 27
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MichaelHunt
HAM Plinker
I have one, it's the only .177 airgun I have. It shoots like a lazer! It is a great little break barrel. I put a red dot I bought off Amazon on it and it works very well. It is handy for pesting around the house, and fun to plink and shoot targets with.
Sydney Monk
HAM Sniper
Thanks for the reply.
Nice looking! Do you like the red dot on it?
MichaelHunt
HAM Plinker
Yes it works well for me on this gun. It's mostly for yard pests or plinking around the camp, so that red dot gets me right on everything I need within 40 feet or so. I can get it on target at 50 yards no problem but if I wanted better accuracy at that distance I feel like I'd have to get a springer-rated optic.
Sydney Monk
HAM Sniper
Cool, thanks!
What red dot is it? I'm trying to find one that will survive on my Hatsan Mod 25. Thanks.
Last edited:
My Model 25 in 0.177 shoots as accurately as I can aim out to 60', with RWS Superdome 8.3 gr pellets. There are a few things to be aware of.
#1) Even a well-mounted scope will slide backwards with the intense internal forward "recoil". So you have to butt it up against the provided scope stop. However, that plate's two mounting screws are soft steel and will shear off, even if kept tight. When that happens you are down to open sights only until you can somehow get the broken screws removed, which will probably need a machinist or gunsmith.
So I think it is imperative to replace the stock M4 x 4mm mounting screws with grade 12.9 screws. The problem is finding such a thing. I finally went with Monster Bolt hi-grade M4 x 5mm cap screws, with three flat washers under each to keep the screws from going in too far. Clearances inside are so close that using a 5mm screw by itself will prevent you from cocking the gun.
Put blue Loctite / thread-lock on these screws and tighten them well. The impact force is expected to be resisted by the friction of the stop plate against the metal receiver, not by the screws themselves. Their job is to create that friction by holding the plate tight. If they get loose then even high-grade screws can shear off.
#2) The scope mounting rails are 11mm dovetail. Marketers often claim that a 3/8" dovetail mount is "compatible" with 11mm, and that's probably ok on a powder gun. BUT on this springer with its huge shock load, trying to use a 3/8" mount will require holding forces so high that you'll deform or strip the mounting hardware. If you can't find a native 11mm scope / red dot that you like, you can go with a picatinny adapter BUT that will preclude a "co-witness" use of the open sights. A red dot calibrated for 60' (where it really helps) will have you shooting way too low at 20' and you'll wish the open sights were available.
I finally settled on a Hatsan Optima 1x30 red dot which is generally well built with nice click adjustments, low cost, had no significant parallax, is 11mm dovetail, and allows use of the open sights.
BUT as delivered this red dot (and probably most others with a turret selector) will not stand up to the gun recoil - three of them failed within 100 pellets each. The brightness adjusting turret on top comes apart internally and just spins uselessly. I finally disassembled the turret and found that the four tiny machine screws inside had all come loose. I put blue thread-lock on them and reassembled the sight and it never came apart again.
BUT there is a further problem with this and probably all turret red-dots: the copper pads on the internal PC board disk will get crud buildup from the metal spring contacts that rub against them. This looks like a black coating on the copper, and soon simply disables the switch actions - the red dot flickers on and off in all turret positions. This is fairly easily fixed by removing the disk and cleaning all the copper pads with a pencil eraser. Before you remove the disk be careful to note its orientation (there is only one right position) and its up/down facing; see the attached picture here. Then you should be good for another few months, which is about the time the battery will last so you can service both at once, fortunately without affecting the aim.
#3) The gun's trigger adjustments are a mystery, even to HatsanUSA. The design was apparently revamped ca 2015 and the docs never updated. Now there are only two screws and nobody knows which is which, but I think the front-most screw adjusts force (cw to reduce) and the one behind it adjusts travel (ccw to reduce). With a little fooling around I got mine working pretty well.
#1) Even a well-mounted scope will slide backwards with the intense internal forward "recoil". So you have to butt it up against the provided scope stop. However, that plate's two mounting screws are soft steel and will shear off, even if kept tight. When that happens you are down to open sights only until you can somehow get the broken screws removed, which will probably need a machinist or gunsmith.
So I think it is imperative to replace the stock M4 x 4mm mounting screws with grade 12.9 screws. The problem is finding such a thing. I finally went with Monster Bolt hi-grade M4 x 5mm cap screws, with three flat washers under each to keep the screws from going in too far. Clearances inside are so close that using a 5mm screw by itself will prevent you from cocking the gun.
Put blue Loctite / thread-lock on these screws and tighten them well. The impact force is expected to be resisted by the friction of the stop plate against the metal receiver, not by the screws themselves. Their job is to create that friction by holding the plate tight. If they get loose then even high-grade screws can shear off.
#2) The scope mounting rails are 11mm dovetail. Marketers often claim that a 3/8" dovetail mount is "compatible" with 11mm, and that's probably ok on a powder gun. BUT on this springer with its huge shock load, trying to use a 3/8" mount will require holding forces so high that you'll deform or strip the mounting hardware. If you can't find a native 11mm scope / red dot that you like, you can go with a picatinny adapter BUT that will preclude a "co-witness" use of the open sights. A red dot calibrated for 60' (where it really helps) will have you shooting way too low at 20' and you'll wish the open sights were available.
I finally settled on a Hatsan Optima 1x30 red dot which is generally well built with nice click adjustments, low cost, had no significant parallax, is 11mm dovetail, and allows use of the open sights.
BUT as delivered this red dot (and probably most others with a turret selector) will not stand up to the gun recoil - three of them failed within 100 pellets each. The brightness adjusting turret on top comes apart internally and just spins uselessly. I finally disassembled the turret and found that the four tiny machine screws inside had all come loose. I put blue thread-lock on them and reassembled the sight and it never came apart again.
BUT there is a further problem with this and probably all turret red-dots: the copper pads on the internal PC board disk will get crud buildup from the metal spring contacts that rub against them. This looks like a black coating on the copper, and soon simply disables the switch actions - the red dot flickers on and off in all turret positions. This is fairly easily fixed by removing the disk and cleaning all the copper pads with a pencil eraser. Before you remove the disk be careful to note its orientation (there is only one right position) and its up/down facing; see the attached picture here. Then you should be good for another few months, which is about the time the battery will last so you can service both at once, fortunately without affecting the aim.
#3) The gun's trigger adjustments are a mystery, even to HatsanUSA. The design was apparently revamped ca 2015 and the docs never updated. Now there are only two screws and nobody knows which is which, but I think the front-most screw adjusts force (cw to reduce) and the one behind it adjusts travel (ccw to reduce). With a little fooling around I got mine working pretty well.
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