Break Barrel Care and feeding of a new Weihrauch HW95N?

[dunz]

Can anyone recommend a good guide or post on taking care of a brand new air rifle?

As a new owner I am hoping to learn about the best techniques and procedures to utilize while maintaining. Also, I am quite curious as to what y'all recommend for breaking-in a new rifle. Is there maintenance or tweaks that I should preform before putting it through too much use?

Also what about tune kits, is there a guide or post that explains and compares the various tunes and mods commonly used on these rifles?

I have watched a few videos from TbT Tinbum Tuning and explored the kits he has available. I am leaning toward his MAXI tuning kit in full power and possibly a Short Stroke Extension Kit for the Weihrauch HW95N in .20 cal. Being in FL, I am just wondering if ordering from over seas makes the most sense and y'alls thoughts on how these kits compare and contrast to others.

Edited to add photo:

 

[jlowe]

Keep the barrel cleaned.
Vortek tuning
vortekproducts.com
ARH headquarters
airrifleheadquarters.com
have really good tune kits.

 

[FL22]

Here is a quote from HatefulMcnasty to me:

“A lot of guys disassemble and clean and relube the spring and inspect seal . Then when apart debur the cutouts of the tube

I prefer to shoot one out first through a breaking period . Lots of advice on this out there. That I do this or I do that ..lol. heck some just go but a new spring and seal and tune new out of the box .

I don't know about walnut stocks but stock sctews on a hw need constant checking for coming loose . Locktite never did much on mine so I really don't use any but over time the wood will compress and harden in the screw holes and becomes less and less factor . (Seems a hw gets better with age ..lol)

Then barrel.cleaning .. this last r9 I'm shooting it was bad .. hardened stuff in it like jb weld and took 2 days of soaking in solvent and scrubbing it out to get it all out ..”


As far as mine goes all that I have done so far is clean, shoot and tighten.
Mine is a .177 and likes H&N Barracuda 8

Hope you enjoy your new HW.

 

[Madeintheuk]

My R9 came from flying dragon airguns. Mike strips them, cleans them, adds his top hat and makes sure they’re deburred before shipping them out. All I had to do was load a pellet and shoot. I’m using iron sights, so no scope mounting either. It’s dieseling a little, but I didn’t even clean the barrel, so I expected that. It’s still shooting mighty consistent for a brand new rifle though. Very pleased with it.

 

[jps2486]

I just bought one from AOA. I shot about 150 pellets through it and it shot quite consistently through the chronograph. 920 fps with JSB 10.3 gr and 830 with 8.4 gr. I thought the shot cycle was rather harsh, so I replaced all the guts with a HO Vortek tune kit. I wasn't looking for super power so I cut one coil off the spring before installing it. The inside was pretty greasy from whatever foul grease that HW uses so I felt better about cleaning it all out and using the grease that Vortek supplies. Now, it shoots quieter and smoother. Velocity with the 8.4 gr remains at 915 and the 10.4 gr shoots 802 fps. Accuracy is better too since the gun doesn't jump around so much.

 

[dunz]

Then when apart debur the cutouts of the tube...

Thanks, I'll research this. Any posts or videos you'd recommend on performing this procedure?

 

[dunz]

It’s dieseling a little,,,

I have run across this term 'dieseling' a couple times now but, not entirely sure what it means. Lube/grease getting too hot?

 

[Madeintheuk]

I have run across this term 'dieseling' a couple times now but, not entirely sure what it means. Lube/grease getting too hot?

Dieseling is just the burning up of any leftover crud in the barrel and compression tube. Not to be mixed up with detonation, it’ll cause a little smoke from the barrel after a shot, and maybe some higher than normal velocities until it’s all worked out. Better to clean the barrel before shooting anyway, but unless you’re stripping the gun from new, there’s no way to get rid of it out of the compression tube without just firing it out.

 

[FL22]

Thanks, I'll research this. Any posts or videos you'd recommend on performing this procedure?

I looked through all photos and posts he had with me about breaking it down and reassembling but couldn’t find anything specific. Just general cleaning and proper grease (moly).

 

[Danman]

Absolutely nothing wrong with tuning/modding the gun, but I have a new gun "rule" . Shoot it as-is for a good few months, and get some baselines/data. Then you know what you got, and if the mods/work you do, makes any positive change. My new airgun routine Is: put some rounds threw it (starting with mid weight) , clean the barrel, chrono it, check exterior bolts as time goes on. We wouldn't say no to a pic or 2 of it!

 

[Farmplinker2]

I have run across this term 'dieseling' a couple times now but, not entirely sure what it means. Lube/grease getting too hot?

It's how Gamo gets such high FPS compared to other brands.

 

[jps2486]

Thanks, I'll research this. Any posts or videos you'd recommend on performing this procedure?

I used some 600 grit abrasive cloth wrapped around my finger. If that doesn't work for you, get a 1/2 inch dowel or so and cut a slot in the end. Put the cloth in the slot and spin it inside the receiver where all the holes are with a drill. Don't over do it. Just polish the ID enought to get the sharp edges off the holes. It's nice to have this abrasive cloth assortment from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/QYQRQF-Sandpaper-Dispenser-Woodworking-Automotive/dp/B09RH2F5NT/ref=sr_1_14_sspa?sr=8-14-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

Dieseling is a reference to diesel engines. Actually, a diesel engine is really a compression ignition engine which they named after some German by the name of Diesel. Compression ignition engines have a very high compression ratio, about 18:1 vs a gas engine of 8-9:1. High compression results in enough heat to ignite the fuel, hence no need for spark plugs. In airguns, any residual oil or grease will ignite during the shot cycle because the pressure is so high. It could kinda be explosive if too much petroleum lubricants are in there. That's why it's recommended to use silicone lubes in airguns because it either has a very high flash point or it doesn't burn at all.

 

[dunz]

Great

I used some 600 grit abrasive cloth wrapped around my finger. If that doesn't work for you, get a 1/2 inch dowel or so and cut a slot in the end. Put the cloth in the slot and spin it inside the receiver where all the holes are with a drill. Don't over do it. Just polish the ID enought to get the sharp edges off the holes. It's nice to have this abrasive cloth assortment from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/QYQRQF-Sandpaper-Dispenser-Woodworking-Automotive/dp/B09RH2F5NT/ref=sr_1_14_sspa?sr=8-14-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

Dieseling is a reference to diesel engines. Actually, a diesel engine is really a compression ignition engine which they named after some German by the name of Diesel. Compression ignition engines have a very high compression ratio, about 18:1 vs a gas engine of 8-9:1. High compression results in enough heat to ignite the fuel, hence no need for spark plugs. In airguns, any residual oil or grease will ignite during the shot cycle because the pressure is so high. It could kinda be explosive if too much petroleum lubricants are in there. That's why it's recommended to use silicone lubes in airguns because it either has a very high flash point or it doesn't burn at all.

Great info, thank you!

 

[dunz]

After a few dozen shots today, I think I understand dieseling. Definitely had a petrol smell after a bit. Will just shooting through it cause any long term damage?

 

[jps2486]

After a few dozen shots today, I think I understand dieseling. Definitely had a petrol smell after a bit. Will just shooting through it cause any long term damage?

No, it will eventually go away as the oil burns off.

 

[dunz]

That's why it's recommended to use silicone lubes in airguns because it either has a very high flash point or it doesn't burn at all.

So I am curious about the best places to use silicone lubes in springers. I've read that silicone is a poor metal to metal lube and that using a moly lube may be better. Would this stuff available at brownells be appropriate for those metal on metal locations and what locations are best for silicone lube?

 

[jps2486]

So I am curious about the best places to use silicone lubes in springers. I've read that silicone is a poor metal to metal lube and that using a moly lube may be better. Would this stuff available at brownells be appropriate for those metal on metal locations and what locations are best for silicone lube?

I can't think of any. Vortek spring kits are supplied with some red grease to be applied to the spring, piston and other surfaces. I would guess this stuff is Lucas Red 'n Tacky grease. I use moly grease on the ends of the spring guides and on sliding surfaces that are highly stressed like the cocking shoe and the lockup lug. I also put a very little around the perifery of the piston seal. NOT on the face of the piston. Some folks put a very light coat of moly on the piston itself. Silicone lubes come in a variety of viscosities, so I couldn't comment on what to use with this stuff.

 

[Danman]

I can't think of any. Vortek spring kits are supplied with some red grease to be applied to the spring, piston and other surfaces. I would guess this stuff is Lucas Red 'n Tacky grease. I use moly grease on the ends of the spring guides and on sliding surfaces that are highly stressed like the cocking shoe and the lockup lug. I also put a very little around the perifery of the piston seal. NOT on the face of the piston. Some folks put a very light coat of moly on the piston itself. Silicone lubes come in a variety of viscosities, so I couldn't comment on what to use with this stuff.

Lol my brother did this tune kit on his 350 Magnum and it dieselled quite a bit afterwards. Pretty sure he coated piston face! I use a few drop of silicone lube in the piston chamber myself but not too much....sparingly is key. I believe you are correct on the red grease, it looks, feels, and smells the same as the stuff I use in our repair shop

 

[jlowe]

Lol my brother did this tune kit on his 350 Magnum and it dieselled quite a bit afterwards. Pretty sure he coated piston face! I use a few drop of silicone lube in the piston chamber myself but not too much....sparingly is key. I believe you are correct on the red grease, it looks, feels, and smells the same as the stuff I use in our repair shop

When you are installing the piston seal, it is already going to get some lube on the edge of the seal, whether it's the lube from the Vortek kit or from the Maccari kit, so you don't need to add any yourself. Normally, you should only have dieseling for no more than 50 shots.

 

[dunz]

Gotta love a good exploded diagram with clickable parts (follow the link). Its the little things in life

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