250Z Broken sear 250z. Common problem?

[HDODT]

I recently got a 250z, my first PCP. I got it all set up and was getting ready to put it's first charge in it but I wanted to turn down the regulator first. So I opened the bleed screw then went to dry fire it a couple times. On the second dry fire the trigger was dead. I went to recock it and the hammer wouldn't catch. So I took the stock off and found the sear/hammer catch was broken off at the spring pocket. Is this a common issue with these? I've goggled it and only found one mention of it.

I contacted Barra and am working on getting them to replace the sear. I also ordered one from their website to get one here quicker. If they send me a second one I'd like to have a back up if it happens again. Kinda feeling frustrated with it. I do like the rifle though.

 

[hameditor]

I recently got a 250z, my first PCP. I got it all set up and was getting ready to put it's first charge in it but I wanted to turn down the regulator first. So I opened the bleed screw then went to dry fire it a couple times. On the second dry fire the trigger was dead. I went to recock it and the hammer wouldn't catch. So I took the stock off and found the sear/hammer catch was broken off at the spring pocket. Is this a common issue with these? I've goggled it and only found one mention of it.

I contacted Barra and am working on getting them to replace the sear. I also ordered one from their website to get one here quicker. If they send me a second one I'd like to have a back up if it happens again. Kinda feeling frustrated with it. I do like the rifle though.

Sorry to hear that. I'm sure that Barra will help you. Oh - and welcome to the HAM Community!!!

 

[HDODT]

Sorry to hear that. I'm sure that Barra will help you. Oh - and welcome to the HAM Community!!!

Thank you for having me!

 

[BBGunn]

You are the second person I have read that posted with a broken sear lever. I don't think it is a 'common' issue.

I bought my rifle a few months back. I adjusted the trigger to single-stage function and it's worked flawlessly for a couple thousand shots to now.

Did you make any trigger adjustments before the sear lever broke?

 

[HDODT]

You are the second person I have read that posted with a broken sear lever. I don't think it is a 'common' issue.

I bought my rifle a few months back. I adjusted the trigger to single-stage function and it's worked flawlessly for a couple thousand shots to now.

Did you make any trigger adjustments before the sear lever broke?

No adjustments were made. I think it actually broke the very first time I pulled the trigger (I never got it to dry fire again). Did you just adjust the second stage or compeletly to get it to be just single stage?

 

[pan60]

welcome to HAM

 

[HDODT]

welcome to HAM

Glad to be here. Thanks for having me.

 

[cosmic]

I hope not, since that spring is a pain to install...

 

[HDODT]

I hope not, since that spring is a pain to install...

My plan is to pin that spring down with a zip tie then remove the broken sear then install new sear then cut the zip tie.

 

[BBGunn]

No adjustments were made. I think it actually broke the very first time I pulled the trigger (I never got it to dry fire again). Did you just adjust the second stage or compeletly to get it to be just single stage?

To make a great single-stage trigger you need to remove the screw that is in the trigger group at about a 45-degree angle. Also, remove the spring at the rear of the trigger group that serves as the first stage weight-of-pull. Next, remove the shorter screw that adjust the length of the first stage. Now, take the longer screw and put it back where the shorter screw was.

Next, cock the rifle and slowly screw the longer screw in until the rifle fires. Back the screw off to your liking and you are done. Make sure the rifle is cocked while adjusting the longer screw inward. If the rifle is not cocked then you can over tighten it forcing against one the trigger levers. Make sure you lock the adjustment screw with glue or mild thread locker so it doesn't vibrate out of adjustment.

Now, with the trigger adjusted to single-stage the safety will not work. You can modify the safety crossbar by reducing diameter on the part of the crossbar that blocks the trigger group from moving. It's hard to explain in word but look into the hole where the safety bar goes after the trigger is adjusted to single stage and you will see what I am saying.

I hope this makes enough sense that you can figure it out should you want to go single-stage. Hard to explain in word.

Good luck with your new rifle!

 

[FL22]

Hello @HDODT and welcome to HAM.

 

[Pumacarl]

Welcome to HAM! Sorry to hear about your problem sear. I don't think that's common either, so that's even more of a bummer. Don't worry, the gun will make up for it in the end, it is a total ball to shoot.

 

[HDODT]

To make a great single-stage trigger you need to remove the screw that is in the trigger group at about a 45-degree angle. Also, remove the spring at the rear of the trigger group that serves as the first stage weight-of-pull. Next, remove the shorter screw that adjust the length of the first stage. Now, take the longer screw and put it back where the shorter screw was.

Next, cock the rifle and slowly screw the longer screw in until the rifle fires. Back the screw off to your liking and you are done. Make sure the rifle is cocked while adjusting the longer screw inward. If the rifle is not cocked then you can over tighten it forcing against one the trigger levers. Make sure you lock the adjustment screw with glue or mild thread locker so it doesn't vibrate out of adjustment.

Now, with the trigger adjusted to single-stage the safety will not work. You can modify the safety crossbar by reducing diameter on the part of the crossbar that blocks the trigger group from moving. It's hard to explain in word but look into the hole where the safety bar goes after the trigger is adjusted to single stage and you will see what I am saying.

I hope this makes enough sense that you can figure it out should you want to go single-stage. Hard to explain in word.

Good luck with your new rifle!

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I'm guessing this is completely reversible if it doesn't work out?

 

[HDODT]

Welcome to HAM! Sorry to hear about your problem sear. I don't think that's common either, so that's even more of a bummer. Don't worry, the gun will make up for it in the end, it is a total ball to shoot.

I'm thinking that with the lack of others having the same problem it's just a bad luck deal and will be great once I get a new sear.

Barra got back to me and sent a new sear under warranty. I'm really looking forward to shooting it. I've got 6 different slugs and pellets to test out in it.

 

[BBGunn]

Thank you for the detailed explanation. I'm guessing this is completely reversible if it doesn't work out?

Yes, except modification to the safety bar. If you modify the safety bar to work with the single-stage setting it will not work if you go back to two-stage. But, if you are just testing to see which way you want the trigger then there is no need to mess with the safety. Just leave the bar out of the trigger group until you decide how ya want the trigger.

And, of course 'NorthEastBeast' sells his trigger kit to improver the trigger while staying with two-stage function. I haven't used his kit but others in here have it installed and can comment.

 

[HDODT]

Yes, except modification to the safety bar. If you modify the safety bar to work with the single-stage setting it will not work if you go back to two-stage. But, if you are just testing to see which way you want the trigger then there is no need to mess with the safety. Just leave the bar out of the trigger group until you decide how ya want the trigger.

And, of course 'NorthEastBeast' sells his trigger kit to improver the trigger while staying with two-stage function. I haven't used his kit but others in here have it installed and can comment.

Thank you.

 

[Pumacarl]

Thank you.

I don't normally talk about triggers for safety reasons but since you were given such detailed advice I will just say that you should not touch the bar. All you have to work on is the safety bolt shoulder itself, which you can easily chuck up in a drill and use a file on edge, to bring down the diameter to work. Check fit often. Once you're into it, you'll get what I'm saying, if you don't, then don't start.

 

[BBGunn]

I don't normally talk about triggers for safety reasons but since you were given such detailed advice I will just say that you should not touch the bar. All you have to work on is the safety bolt shoulder itself, which you can easily chuck up in a drill and use a file on edge, to bring down the diameter to work. Check fit often. Once you're into it, you'll get what I'm saying, if you don't, then don't start.

That's exactly what I was referring to but just didn't know how I should word it.

Like Pumacarl said, check often as you remove material and decrease the diameter. It's a pretty critical diameter. Too much material removed and the safety will not work if the sear engagement is really minimal.

Best to leave modification of the safety bar alone until you are sure how you want the trigger adjusted.

 

[HDODT]

That's exactly what I was referring to but just didn't know how I should word it.

Like Pumacarl said, check often as you remove material and decrease the diameter. It's a pretty critical diameter. Too much material removed and the safety will not work if the sear engagement is really minimal.

Best to leave modification of the safety bar alone until you are sure how you want the trigger adjusted.

It looks like I can get a safety bar from Barra. I'll probably order one just to have the ability to put it all back to stock if I do go that route. I come from shooting powder burners, long range precision type stuff. The safeties on those rifles never gets used. The bolt is always open until I'm on target and ready to shoot. When I'm hunting with a rifle the chamber is usually empty ans i move around. I'm not sure how conducive that method would be with this PCP but I'll figure it out. I like to tinker till things are just how I like them. I appreciate all the advice.

 

[BBGunn]

It looks like I can get a safety bar from Barra. I'll probably order one just to have the ability to put it all back to stock if I do go that route. I come from shooting powder burners, long range precision type stuff. The safeties on those rifles never gets used. The bolt is always open until I'm on target and ready to shoot. When I'm hunting with a rifle the chamber is usually empty ans i move around. I'm not sure how conducive that method would be with this PCP but I'll figure it out. I like to tinker till things are just how I like them. I appreciate all the advice.

Same for me..., grew up with rifles. I built several 'chuck' rifles on Rem 700 actions on H.S. Precision stocks and Jewel triggers.

With regard to the 250z safety, I never use it either. I never walk with the rifle cocked while hunting. For the 250z I hunt with the single-shot tray so if the shot doesn't happen while I'm on stand I just de-cock the rifle with a pellet in the breech and move to the next spot.

Sounds like you have a system that is safe while you use the rifle so the safety issue isn't a big deal for you.

I fired the 250z on target this morning just to confirm zero is still on. It never changes but you know what I mean. I'm heading out to find a chuck again tomorrow. The 250z sits nicely on my shooting sticks and is easy to hunt with shooting off the turkey seat.