250Z Version 2, barra 250z hammer spring explination for newbs like me.

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

I use the teflon tape on any HS adjuster screw/bolt. Has always worked well for me.

Yessir. Messing with pneumatic, and hydraulics 5-6 days a week helped me figure that trick out pretty quick.

But to be honest, it works so well, why they didn't do it from the factory, and forego the pin all together kinda baffles me.

 

[BBGunn]

Yessir. Messing with pneumatic, and hydraulics 5-6 days a week helped me figure that trick out pretty quick.

But to be honest, it works so well, why they didn't do it from the factory, and forego the pin all together kinda baffles me.

The trick to using it (as you know) on an adjuster screw is getting just the right amount of tape wrap so the screw/bolt isn't too tight, but tight enough not to move.

 

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

The trick to using it (as you know) on an adjuster screw is getting just the right amount of tape wrap so the screw/bolt isn't too tight, but tight enough not to move.

Yep. I always do a progressive wrap too. The further *you* go in. It gets more snug. Don't have experience with any other h.s. but tons with npt.

 

[Dogowski]

Yessir. Messing with pneumatic, and hydraulics 5-6 days a week helped me figure that trick out pretty quick.

But to be honest, it works so well, why they didn't do it from the factory, and forego the pin all together kinda baffles me.

I think it would make the gun cost more due to the machining. Pins are cheapl

 

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

I think it would make the gun cost more due to the machining. Pins are cheapl

Fair enough. Can't argue with logic.

Bbbbbuuuuutttt,


You getting ready for this my man?!

 

[BBGunn]

Now that I have the rifle (Gen2) in my hands..., I see the hammer spring adjustment setup is the same as what Reximex uses in their Daystar, Lyra and perhaps other models.

 

[Bladefin]

Now that I have the rifle (Gen2) in my hands..., I see the hammer spring adjustment setup is the same as what Reximex uses in their Daystar, Lyra and perhaps other models.

I still feel the change from G1 to G2 and using the same spring wasn't the best idea. For G2 it's too long and adds too much compression load to the hammer without a mod of some type by the user. When the adjuster is backed out past flush the gun still loud and wasting air from a heavy hammer strike.

Shortening the spring or swapping out for other ones till the right balance is met really helped me and increased the adjustment range. Which in turn allows for finer pressure adjustments.

When I pick the barrel best of the two barrels I'm going to use, I'm going to reassemble the G2 first and start the tuning.

 

[BBGunn]

I still feel the change from G1 to G2 and using the same spring wasn't the best idea. For G2 it's too long and adds too much compression load to the hammer without a mod of some type by the user. When the adjuster is backed out past flush the gun still loud and wasting air from a heavy hammer strike.

Shortening the spring or swapping out for other ones till the right balance is met really helped me and increased the adjustment range. Which in turn allows for finer pressure adjustments.

When I pick the barrel best of the two barrels I'm going to use, I'm going to reassemble the G2 first and start the tuning.

Since I just got this rifle yesterday, I don't have anything more to add about the hammer spring yet.

I do normally find the best tune for any PCP by following the concept of, 'small sip of high pressure' being better than a 'larger sip of lower pressure'. Of course, there are always exceptions to everything.

If cutting and closing the cut end of the spring is required I'll get to that eventually. I've had to do that on several rifles over time. More so with unregulated rifles but always an option on any rifle.

 

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

I still feel the change from G1 to G2 and using the same spring wasn't the best idea. For G2 it's too long and adds too much compression load to the hammer without a mod of some type by the user. When the adjuster is backed out past flush the gun still loud and wasting air from a heavy hammer strike.

Shortening the spring or swapping out for other ones till the right balance is met really helped me and increased the adjustment range. Which in turn allows for finer pressure adjustments.

When I pick the barrel best of the two barrels I'm going to use, I'm going to reassemble the G2 first and start the tuning.

Yep. I punched the pin out, put the main lug just flush, and have the slugs kit, and spring uncut, and installed.

I just backed the internal adjuster until there is hardly any spring tension uncocked, and will be fine tuning for the new barrel, and opening. I would say today, but at 11 last night, one of the seals gave out during my pressure test, so I gotta hunt that down.

 

[BBGunn]

After my first tuning session yesterday I see that the hammer spring is too long. Today I'll be cutting the spring back to a length that allows zero preload when the adjuster plug is about 3/4 of the way into the steel insert.

To me its the easier fix to cut the spring than to drift out the insert pin and move the insert rearward in the block. Of course, the result is similar using either method.

 

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

After my first tuning session yesterday I see that the hammer spring is too long. Today I'll be cutting the spring back to a length that allows zero preload when the adjuster plug is about 3/4 of the way into the steel insert.

To me its the easier fix to cut the spring than to drift out the insert pin and move the insert rearward in the block. Of course, the result is similar using either method.

To each their own. My way, allowed me to plug and play the slug kit, port out, and polish the valve, trigger bits, and hammer while I was at it, and gives tons of adjustability. Which if I do ever switch things up to 36 grains, and up, will most certainly come in handy.

There's no wrong way in my books, as long as youre enjoying slinging lead out it like youre in the wild west!

 

[BBGunn]

Got the spring cut this morning. As it sits now the spring just touches the adjustment plug when the plug is flush with the back of the block. The spring is now a FINISHED length of exactly .500" shorter than stock.

I set the reg. to 2250psi and fired some AEA 22gr over the Chrony. Velocity was 965fps and ES was 1.3fps for 10-shots. The valve & reg. likes the spring setting so just a matter of finding the one projectile I'll settle on and get a final tune.

Cut, close, grind, file, blue and ready to go.

 

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

Got the spring cut this morning. As it sits now the spring just touches the adjustment plug when the plug is flush with the back of the block. The spring is now a FINISHED length of exactly .500" shorter than stock.

I set the reg. to 2250psi and fired some AEA 22gr over the Chrony. Velocity was 965fps and ES was 1.3fps for 10-shots. The reg. likes the spring setting so just a matter of finding the one projectile I'll settle on and get a final tune.

Cut, close, grind, file, blue and ready to go.

Yep! When I cut mine, I cut off 3/4 and inch, to accommodate the hammer weight. Worked pretty good. Definitely better than what they sent out originally. But, opening it up to clean up the guts, I simply couldnt justify putting it back the way it was, when I can buy a direct replacement spring from home depot when the spring looses tension.

Maybe thats my lazy showing, buuuuut, with the juice from this squeeze, my coworkers are already asking what, and how I did the tweaks and mods.

 

[BBGunn]

PPP, you'll die before you ever need to replace the hammer spring from loss of tension. I have a PCP that's almost 35yrs old and seen God know how many thousands of shots fired! Occasionally I run it over the Chrony and the velocity remains unchanged from the first tune it ever had! Truth, no B.S. !

But, it's a comforting feeling to know you can always get parts..., regardless where they come from.

 

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

PPP, you'll die before you ever need to replace the hammer spring from loss of tension. I have a PCP that's almost 35yrs old and seen God know how many thousands of shots fired! Occasionally I run it over the Chrony and the velocity remains unchanged from the first tune it ever had! Truth, no B.S. !

But, it's a comforting feeling to know you can always get parts..., regardless where they come from.

Preach. Parts, all the parts. Man, I pray im blessed enough to wear the spring tension out! That would be a good life for sure!
Maybe winning a lottery would help with that.

One thing is for sure, a little elbow grease, and every time I hear the 'pop!' Of a pest dude, its like, JACKPOT!

 

[Dogowski]

Fair enough. Can't argue with logic.

Bbbbbuuuuutttt,


You getting ready for this my man?!

Alright! Sweet rig man and critters beware.

 

[Dogowski]

Got my BR stock from Buckrail installed on my 250z. Lightened it up at least a pound. Haven't got to shoot it much due to the sub zero temperatures and snow but she's ready!

 

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

Got my BR stock from Buckrail installed on my 250z. Lightened it up at least a pound. Haven't got to shoot it much due to the sub zero temperatures and snow but she's ready!

Bro. Its a changer if you like hugging up for super controlled shots.

 

[BBGunn]

Got my BR stock from Buckrail installed on my 250z. Lightened it up at least a pound. Haven't got to shoot it much due to the sub zero temperatures and snow but she's ready!

Does the lighter rear stock make the rifle feel front heavy?

 

[PestPlasteringPlinker]

Does the lighter rear stock make the rifle feel front heavy?

I don't think so. But im use to powder Woodstock. Plus, im 99% of the time shooting off legs when I have that stock on. When im running about, its stock stock to get that perfect lop and cheek rest position.