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Break Barrel Rowan Triggers for Weihrauch Springers

sandog

HAM Shooter
31
158
Northern Arizona
HAM Points
207.75
Country flag
Last edited:
Today I installed a Rowan Engineering trigger, an extreme set back one in black finish.
The only thing that I didn't like about my R7 was how far forward in the trigger guard the trigger was, and how the long adjustment screw behind the trigger stuck down 1/2".
And while I chose the R7 over an Hw30 because I like the stock on the Beeman better, I could do without the gold trigger and adj. screw that the Beemans have.
Only cosmetic things for sure.
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The LOP with the factory trigger was 14 inches. Not a big stretch for a 5'11" guy like myself, but I wouldn't want it any longer. I find it easier to use a stock that is a bit too short, than one that is too long. I saw someone's rifle that had the Rowan trigger, and I liked it. The extreme set back one like mine moves the contact point back 3/8", so now I have a 13 5/8" LOP.
I chose the black anodized finish, other options are natural silver( aluminum) or gold anodization. In addition to the extreme set back trigger, there is a set back (5mm) and a straight trigger.
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Easy to install. Remove the stock, then remove the long adjustment screw (and the spring under it so it doesn't fall out unnoticed.)
Support the trigger housing and drift out the 2mm pin, swap triggers, put the 2mm pin back in, then the spring and short adjustment screw.
The new short screws all come in brass but are nearly entirely hidden up inside the stock.

One thing that I like about the Rowan trigger are the two rollers on top. They are actual rollers, whereas the top of the factory Rekord trigger has two faux rollers.
The non functioning rollers on the factory trigger just scrape across the bar above it, it wore off the gold finish on the top of my non rollers.
Having the rollers of the Rowan should be smoother and less friction.
20260810_132223.webp

The only thing I don't like is that the new, shorter adjustment screw is slightly smaller in diameter than the long factory screw, it feels a bit wobbly. I read where some guy just cut down his long factory screw and re-cut a new screwdriver slot in it. That is an option, but I'll put some Loctite on the screw for now.

Before and after pics of the new trigger and short screw, a pic of the new trigger, and a pic of the gold factory trigger and the "non" rollers.
I ordered last Monday and it got here today, exactly one week. The tracking provided by the U.K. postal service is better than tracking here in the U.S.
I got emails when the item was received, when it left the U.K., when it arrived in L.A, and when it cleared customs in L.A.
Today I got several more emails that the item was at my post office, then out for delivery, and finally, delivered.
I didn't expect their tracking to tell me anything once the package left the U.K. but I was wrong.
The trigger was $53, shipping and taxes brought the total up to $79.
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As an added bonus, the shorter LOP will be easier for my grandsons. The R7 / Hw30 is a fantastic rifle, and the new trigger made it even better, at least in my eyes.
 
I did some fine tuning of the trigger today, and learned that the new shorter screw that Rowan provides can't be turned out very much, or the top/back part of the extreme setback trigger will come in contact with the screw when the trigger is pulled.
Seeing that the screw is easy to turn and the slot is rather deep, I ground down the head leaving a more shallow slot,
That allowed me to turn the screw out a bit more without the trigger hitting the screw head.

I could probably grind the head down some more and re-cut a new slot. There has to be enough screw tension remaining to push against the spring, otherwise the trigger will not return to the forward position.
With the long factory screw, I was at 1 lb. now I'm at 1 3/4 lbs.
I took some plinking shots after weighing the trigger pull and the extra pull weight isn't even noticeable.

Also it seems I have more first stage pre-travel now. That bugs me, as I don't like to pull the blade 1/4" to 1/2" before getting to that slight wall and break. I hit the tab in front of the trigger with my brass hammer but didn't seem to move it much.
That tab basically keeps the trigger from going as far forward, so when you pull it the travel is less.
 
It took a bit more moving back of the "pre travel tab" in front of the trigger, but now I have close to the same feel I had achieved with the factory trigger. The adjustment tab is leaning back at a good angle now.
I ended up grinding off the slot on the brass screw that Rowan provides, then making a new slot with a Dremel cut off wheel. That allowed me to turn out the screw a bit more and still clear the trigger.
Now I'm at minimal first stage pre-travel with a 1 3/8 lb. pull.
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I went out back and fired 3 different pellets for group. Not my best day of shooting but not my worst either.
I shot a few at the pink dots at top for sighters, as I had the stock off that morning for the final trigger work.
The top 3 groups from left to right are the 7.33 AA Falcons. The middle groups 3 L to R are the 8.1 gr. Vogel Wadcutters.
Bottom 3 groups L to R are the 8.44 gr. JSB Exact Classics.
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While shooting the groups, I noticed something. Noticeable enough that even I noticed it.
Like a light switch was flipped, the R7 just started shooting super smooth and even more quiet than it was before.
This is the first Springer that I've kept long enough to break-in.
Around 700 pellets through it so far.

I have long heard that as the spring "settles in" the rifle gets smoother, quieter and maybe picks up a little velocity as well.
I just didn't expect to have it happen so abruptly.
Just when I thought I couldn't possibly like this little rifle anymore, it gets even better.
20260820_074448.webp
 
It took a bit more moving back of the "pre travel tab" in front of the trigger, but now I have close to the same feel I had achieved with the factory trigger. The adjustment tab is leaning back at a good angle now.
I ended up grinding off the slot on the brass screw that Rowan provides, then making a new slot with a Dremel cut off wheel. That allowed me to turn out the screw a bit more and still clear the trigger.
Now I'm at minimal first stage pre-travel with a 1 3/8 lb. pull.
View attachment 22824
I went out back and fired 3 different pellets for group. Not my best day of shooting but not my worst either.
I shot a few at the pink dots at top for sighters, as I had the stock off that morning for the final trigger work.
The top 3 groups from left to right are the 7.33 AA Falcons. The middle groups 3 L to R are the 8.1 gr. Vogel Wadcutters.
Bottom 3 groups L to R are the 8.44 gr. JSB Exact Classics.
View attachment 22823
While shooting the groups, I noticed something. Noticeable enough that even I noticed it.
Like a light switch was flipped, the R7 just started shooting super smooth and even more quiet than it was before.
This is the first Springer that I've kept long enough to break-in.
Around 700 pellets through it so far.

I have long heard that as the spring "settles in" the rifle gets smoother, quieter and maybe picks up a little velocity as well.
I just didn't expect to have it happen so abruptly.
Just when I thought I couldn't possibly like this little rifle anymore, it gets even better.
View attachment 22825
Interesting! My beloved HW50 has done the opposite recently, I had it out and after maybe 20 shots my shoulder was getting sore, and it's noticeably louder now!
Away it went and I went back to shooting my more beloved TX200😂
The HW is untouched and I am now wanting to go all out on it as i did with my TX200....custom trigger, tune kit & lube, scope/rings and a custom barrel extension "air stripper" to aid with cocking and clean up the front-sight delete. I dont shoot it as much as my scoped guns....if i had to guess id say maybe 500 pellets through it so far?

Nice job with the trigger, i personally prefer the gold or polished metal look. 👍
I love my HW50 trigger as-is minus the fact its waaaay too far forward as well.
 

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