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Break Barrel HW50s Musings

Franklink

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A few months ago I reconfigured my HW50, putting it back in the OEM stock, and replacing the target scope with a fairly small 3-9. I've had few offhand sessions with my HW50 in the last couple months since the reconfiguration, and it's been on my mind lately.

Current state...
Screenshot_20260311-125558.webp

In my opinion, the hold sensitivity of the 50s is very low compared to the 77k, making the 50s much easier to shoot. I also like the lighter weight and more compact size of the 50s over some of the larger springers like the 77/97, TX200, etc.

I always hear about how hard the model HW50s is to cock, I haven't ever thought it was hard to cock. Some say the articulated cocking arm increases the cocking effort, and it might, but I think the articulated cocking arm is what makes the gun special. It doesn't have the typical stock fork screws at 180 degrees to each other like you see on most break-barrels. For stock fixing, It just has one big lug screw on the bottom of the forearm and a smaller screw in the trigger guard. Something about that configuration makes the gun not require loktite, nor does it develop a wandering poi problem like I've seen with typical stock screws through the fork. My guess is that the thin wood on a break barrel stock fork that the screws would regularly go through, are subject to swelling and flexing through humidity/temp changes, which equates to shifting poi and screws that won't stay tight.

As for why I think it is less hold sensitive...

When I was on a serious springer kick I did a ton of research and talked to guys a lot smarter than me when it comes to springers. I don't remember the exact values but the stroke length of the 77/97/95/98 are all about the same, whereas the stroke length of the 50s is shorter than the others I just listed. The 26mm comp tube is shared across the 50/97/77/95/98 but the shorter stroke length of the 50 means the pellet is gone faster. We're talking milliseconds here but the 50 is simply easier to shoot and isn't as picky about how it is held.

It seems like I remember the 50 stroke length was about 10-12 mm longer than a 30 and about 15mm shorter than the 77/97/95/98. That, obviously, puts it right in the middle, which allows it to generate enough energy to be useful but not enough for it to get hold sensitive and jumpy (unless you really space up the spring.)

I tested all this out by putting a short stroke piston nose cap from Tinbum in a 77k at one point. It greatly reduced the hold sensitivity and only cost me about 0.5fpe (with a couple washers to space up the spring again). BUT, the 77k was still heavier and less nimble than the 50, and the 50 was still slightly less hold sensitive.

If I ever end up with a 77/97/98/95 again, it will get a short stroke nose cap. In the meantime, I'm pretty happy with my 50s and have no intentions of trying out the longer piston stroke/heavier/bigger family of 26mm comp tube HWs again.

For further context, I even tried out two specimens of the new version of the FWB Sport that goes for $500-$700. The Sport had/has nothing on the 50s and I no longer have a FWB Sport.

After cycling through nearly all the high-end springer options, the HW50s is one of only three springers that earned a long-term spot at my house. The other two being FWB300 variants.
 
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I bought my HW50S at the same time as my HW97KT. My thinking was that it would be a great back up/alternative to the 97. I end up shooting the HW50S at least twice as much for all the reasons you've mentioned.
Yes sir. The HW50 is just the right size and power.
I understand some variation of them has been made since 1950, for good reason.

BB has a huge series on them for anyone looking for a fairly long read. This link will get you to all of them.
 
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@Franklink...what is up with your barrel, Custom shroud? I have spent a good deal of time getting my TX200 (a whopping whole 1fpe stronger) shooting sweetly and it still doesn't compare to my new 50, both are .177.
The 50 is not really hold sensitive agreed, it's sooo easy to shoot accurately, and let's be real is a feather weight compared to a scoped TX.
A TBT full power kit currently resides in the TX and I now see why (more so in the UK) the short stroke kits are all the rage.
Cocking effort is very manageable on the 50, but I often end up grabbing it by the open sights to cock it as the barrel is fairly short.
Do you ever shoot it with irons @Franklink ?
I may have to throw a scope on mine and see what it can do vs the TX @ 30Y!
 
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@Franklink...what is up with your barrel, Custom shroud? I have spent a good deal of time getting my TX200 (a whopping whole 1fpe stronger) shooting sweetly and it still doesn't compare to my new 50, both are .177.
The 50 is not really hold sensitive agreed, it's sooo easy to shoot accurately, and let's be real is a feather weight compared to a scoped TX.
A TBT full power kit currently resides in the TX and I now see why (more so in the UK) the short stroke kits are all the rage.
Cocking effort is very manageable, but I often end up grabbing it by the open sights to cock it as the barrel is fairly short.
Do you ever shoot it with irons @Franklink ?
I may have to throw a scope on mine and see what it can do vs the TX @ 30Y!
It has a barrel shroud on it, just a big blued steel sleeve. Helps even more with muzzle flip.

When I first got it in 2014ish, I may have taken a couple of shots with the irons. It's been scoped for all its life though.
 
It has a barrel shroud on it, just a big blued steel sleeve. Helps even more with muzzle flip.

When I first got it in 2014ish, I may have taken a couple of shots with the irons. It's been scoped for all its life though.
Has your 50 ever killed any of the scopes you put on it? I have a Hawke vantage 3x9 and Hawke rings as spares. My first "real" scope and well priced but I dont want to kill it either.
My 50 is floating around 11fpe I believe.
 
Has your 50 ever killed any of the scopes you put on it? I have a Hawke vantage 3x9 and Hawke rings as spares. My first "real" scope and well priced but I dont want to kill it either.
My 50 is floating around 11fpe I believe.
My HW50s has not killed any scopes. It had a Vortex Crossfire 4-12 for awhile, then a SWFA 20x for about a decade, and then just in the last 6 or so months, a UTG 3-9.

I've killed scopes with an XS25 (RWS34 clone) and then an RX2 (Beeman branded HW90 in a laminate stock).

Personally, I feel that springers above about 12-14fpe are not good scope candidates, for exactly the reason that they're often scope killers.
 

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