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250Z Can't get valve to work
- Thread starter cosmic
- Start date
- Latest activity Latest activity:
- Replies 31
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BenjeneerJohn
HAM Sniper
Last edited:
I am not familiar with this valve but when we have trouble with a valve not sealing we inspect the sealing surface of the valve for debris or damage. Check both sides of the seal (valve bod and stem).
Are you using a new stem?
When you rebuild the gun and go to refill it, are you cocking it before adding air?
I have never even held a 250Z let alone taken one apart, so I am just throwing out some suggestions.
John
Are you using a new stem?
When you rebuild the gun and go to refill it, are you cocking it before adding air?
I have never even held a 250Z let alone taken one apart, so I am just throwing out some suggestions.
John
Last edited:
I did not have to work on mine. I did buy a spare. If the derlin had come off of my valve stem, I would epoxy it back on. Once that cures, I would (and have) chuck the valve if it sticks out enough when seated, and burnish the two surfaces together. If I couldn't grab the stem on the other side, I would gently chuck the white derlin (remove the spring) where that spring is on your picture, and still burnish the surfaces together. Hajimoto has videos doing this to a Gauntlet on his website, same procedure. You have to get both surfaces to match each other. I actually had one that was so bad in my P15 that I had to use sandpaper between the two surfaces. That is actually hard to explain, how to fold the paper to do both sufaces w/o slipping, you just have to be careful and use a light touch. Setup is everything, and very little time is actually spent burnishing the surfaces. I have an adustable speed dremel that grabbed the valve stem through the body perfectly, I chucked it into the dremel like it was a dremel bit, and held the valve seat in my hand and carefully ran it that way. I have used old-fashioned manual hand drills for this too, their chucks are much finer than regular electric drills. All this to say you have to work the two surfaces against each other to get a perfect fit. Good luck!
Watch this video from 14 minutes to 15:40, he shows what I'm talking about.
Watch this video from 14 minutes to 15:40, he shows what I'm talking about.
I am not actually sure if a regulator can go bad. They are so simple in design. Usually you just replace all of the orings and the little disk of plastic under the piston, and make sure the bellville washers are stacked correctly and they will work. Usually. I have never seen a case where it didn't. I have heard that trying to turn one down while pressurized will break something but I'm not sure what, because I haven't made that mistake, yet.
Northeastbeast
HAM Sniper
Where is the Air escaping from first? Some times if you polish all the contact surfaces it can help. Make sure everything is clean and free of dust and debris.
BenjeneerJohn
HAM Sniper
You might be able to clean it up and glue it back together. Use something like loc-tite or JB weld. Make sure they about l are the plastic safe versions. We have used both to secure prototypes.
It would be nice if you could just get a new valve stem. Is the gun under warranty so you can send it back for repair?
John
It would be nice if you could just get a new valve stem. Is the gun under warranty so you can send it back for repair?
John
Northeastbeast
HAM Sniper
Coxk the rifle take the pressure off the valve. Then hit it with a quick burst of air from a high pressure tank. You need that to close the valve so it can hold back air
Northeastbeast
HAM Sniper
Replace the poppet thats the only thing that will cause that issue
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