How many coats would be optional?
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Orv, you've chosen one of the most respected waxes available for fine wood and metal. Your concerns are valid, but you'll be pleased to know that many museum conservators and collectors agree on the proper method for using Renaissance Wax.
For your walnut stocks, two to three coats are generally optimal. The initial coat will be absorbed by the wood's pores, and subsequent coats will build the satin sheen you like.
Optimal number of coats
- 1st Coat
: Sealing. The first thin, sparingly applied coat will penetrate and seal the grain of the wood. You've already applied one coat to your HW97, and your observation that it "looks pretty good" and "brought out the grain" is exactly what the initial coat is meant to do. Wait the recommended 30 minutes to an hour for the wax to fully set and dry.
- 2nd Coat
: Depth and protection. Applying a second thin coat after the first has cured ensures no spots were missed and builds additional depth in the finish.
- 3rd Coat
: Durability and luster. For maximum durability and a deeper luster, a third coat can be added. This is especially useful for firearms that see regular handling or field use. Beyond three coats, the benefits diminish, and you may risk building up streaks or a hazy surface.
Renaissance Wax and Ballistol
- Will using Ballistol cause problems? No, but you should treat them as separate applications. Renaissance Wax provides long-term, archival-quality protection that resists fingerprints and moisture. Ballistol is a maintenance lubricant and cleaner. Using Ballistol frequently on the wood may strip or soften the wax over time, just as it cleans away fouling.
- How to alternate: Your plan to use Ballistol after shooting is sound. After your cleaning with Ballistol, you can re-apply a thin coat of Renaissance Wax to any areas of the stock that see heavy handling. For areas in the action and on metal parts where you use Ballistol, there is no need to worry about wax build-up if you are cleaning regularly.
Gumming up metal parts
- Minimal risk: You're not going to "gum up" the working parts of your firearm with Renaissance Wax as long as you continue to apply it sparingly. Museum conservators use it precisely because of its stability and long-term performance. For your TX200 and HW97, which are airguns, you would likely apply the wax only to the external metal surfaces (barrel, receiver) and not to the internal workings. This is the correct procedure.
- Avoid checkering: The only area where wax can build up and become a nuisance is in fine checkering. Always be extra sparing with your application there, and use a soft bristle brush to remove any excess before it dries.
Renaissance Wax
vs.
Hoppes
- No need to switch back. The fact that you have been pleased with
Hoppes
is great, but
Renaissance Wax
is considered superior for long-term preservation. It provides a more durable, moisture-resistant finish that will not yellow or degrade over time.
- Alternating is unnecessary. You don't need to alternate between the two. Once you have built up a good protective layer of
Renaissance Wax
, you can simply re-apply it as needed, based on how often you shoot and handle the rifles. The Hoppes wax is now redundant.
Summary
Stick with the
Renaissance Wax
for its superior performance and archival quality. Your approach of using a light application and allowing time between coats is exactly right. A total of two to three thin coats is ideal for a beautiful, protected, and durable satin finish. Your cleaning routine with Ballistol is fine, but for stock maintenance, the
Renaissance Wax
is your new go-to. Continue to apply sparingly to avoid buildup, particularly in checkering, and you can enjoy the peace of mind that your treasured rifles are exceptionally well-cared for.
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