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250Z New Scope for the Barra

K

kcender

HAM Sharp Shooter
129
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Redding, California
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So I ordered a Barra 250 from Pyramid with a leak test and today mounted a scope on it (barely). I was pretty surprised to see that it was fully charged at 3,600psi. The manual was useless. The second dial was about 2,650. I'm not totally ignorant about pcp, but I am about this rifle. Can you help me understand what I'm seeing and maybe a primer on where to learn. Many thanks!
 
The gun is a 3600psi/250 Bar fill, this is pretty common. The second guage was your regulator setting. I believe that is a little high for this gun, unless you open open your thimble port. If you don't want to do that, and I don't think you should right away, air down your gun and set the regulator for 2000psi. From 2000psi you can shoot and check your speed and turn the regulator up 100psi at a time and check speed and groups. You can adjust a regulator up under pressure, but you can't adjust it down under pressure. I'm assuming that you have a chronograph. If you don't have one, get one. You really do need one to keep track and to be able to re-attain prior speeds that work for you. The little Amazon cheapies that go on the end of your barrel work great. $30, what's that, in this sport? Read the threads here too. There is a lot of info in them, good luck!
 
kcender said:
So I ordered a Barra 250 from Pyramid with a leak test and today mounted a scope on it (barely). I was pretty surprised to see that it was fully charged at 3,600psi. The manual was useless. The second dial was about 2,650. I'm not totally ignorant about pcp, but I am about this rifle. Can you help me understand what I'm seeing and maybe a primer on where to learn. Many thanks!
Click to expand...
What a great rifle i have been shooting mine a lot lately! When i got mine delivered it was full of air as well. Counterclockwise on the regulator screw increases pressure and clockwise lowers it. There's a degass screw on top of the optic rail and you MUST degass the rifle before lowering the regulator pressure or it will be damaged. And don't forget to tighten the degass screw before refilling! And when the rifle is empty don't forget to cock it before refilling or it won't work. These tips should make it easier to adjust. Along with Pumacarl we'll help get you going! Did you get the 22 or 25 caliber?
 
Pumacarl said:
The gun is a 3600psi/250 Bar fill, this is pretty common. The second guage was your regulator setting. I believe that is a little high for this gun, unless you open open your thimble port. If you don't want to do that, and I don't think you should right away, air down your gun and set the regulator for 2000psi. From 2000psi you can shoot and check your speed and turn the regulator up 100psi at a time and check speed and groups. You can adjust a regulator up under pressure, but you can't adjust it down under pressure. I'm assuming that you have a chronograph. If you don't have one, get one. You really do need one to keep track and to be able to re-attain prior speeds that work for you. The little Amazon cheapies that go on the end of your barrel work great. $30, what's that, in this sport? Read the threads here too. There is a lot of info in them, good luck!
Click to expand...
I really appreciate the advice and I will follow through! Looks like I will have to take off the scope (unclamp @ the pic rail is my guess) to access the regulator valve, but will first get a speed on it for reference. I was surprised that the rifle was shipped under pressure. Again, many thanks~John
 
Last edited:
Dogowski said:
What a great rifle i have been shooting mine a lot lately! When i got mine delivered it was full of air as well. Counterclockwise on the regulator screw increases pressure and clockwise lowers it. There's a degass screw on top of the optic rail and you MUST degass the rifle before lowering the regulator pressure or it will be damaged. And don't forget to tighten the degass screw before refilling! And when the rifle is empty don't forget to cock it before refilling or it won't work. These tips should make it easier to adjust. Along with Pumacarl we'll help get you going! Did you get the 22 or 25 caliber?
Click to expand...
Hey Steven. I got the .25 since I already have a .22 with the HW100 (that's how I justified it!). So the degass screw will bleed off slowly? Also, are you saying I need to completely empty the tank? I didn't know about re-cocking BF filling the tank so thanks. I had planned on checking the velocity where it is now, turning the regulator screw a 1/4 turn, taking a shot and checking it all the way down just to have some data. It sounds to me like that won't work in that direction and instead, I need to drain/fill and then check my velocity on the way back up. Do I have that right? Also, if I do empty the tank, is that when I turn the regulator down BF filling? Otherwise I will end up at the same place, right?
 
kcender said:
Hey Steven. I got the .25 since I already have a .22 with the HW100 (that's how I justified it!). So the degass screw will bleed off slowly? Also, are you saying I need to completely empty the tank? I didn't know about re-cocking BF filling the tank so thanks. I had planned on checking the velocity where it is now, turning the regulator screw a 1/4 turn, taking a shot and checking it all the way down just to have some data. It sounds to me like that won't work in that direction and instead, I need to drain/fill and then check my velocity on the way back up. Do I have that right? Also, if I do empty the tank, is that when I turn the regulator down BF filling? Otherwise I will end up at the same place, right?
Click to expand...
Yes, a 2.5mm allen key to drain the tank and a shot or two to be sure the plenum is clear. Then a 3mm key to tighten the reg before refilling. I've been tending to go a little low on the reg and raise it to where I want once the tank is around 2500psi.
 
Last edited:
Bladefin said:
Yes, a 2.5mm allen key to drain the tank and a shot or two to be sure the plenum is clear. Then a 3mm key to tighten the reg before refilling. I've been tending to go a little low on the reg and raise it to where I want once the tank is around 2500psi.
Click to expand...
Okay, so I drain the tank completely, re-cock and then refill, but first I turn down (clockwise) the regulator. Oh, and I take some air shots to confirm the plenum is completely empty. Man, and I thought working up loads for one of my rifles was hard! I really appreciate the guidance on everyone's part as well as yours. Lucky I'm a "process type of personality", BC this gonna take some time to arrive at a mass/velocity/accuracy solution and we haven't even gotten to hammer adjustment. What more could a guy want. Many, many thanks!
 
kcender said:
Okay, so I drain the tank completely, re-cock and then refill, but first I turn down (clockwise) the regulator. Oh, and I take some air shots to confirm the plenum is completely empty. Man, and I thought working up loads for one of my rifles was hard! I really appreciate the guidance on everyone's part as well as yours. Lucky I'm a "process type of personality", BC this gonna take some time to arrive at a mass/velocity/accuracy solution and we haven't even gotten to hammer adjustment. What more could a guy want. Many, many thanks!
Click to expand...
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kcender said:
Hey Steven. I got the .25 since I already have a .22 with the HW100 (that's how I justified it!). So the degass screw will bleed off slowly? Also, are you saying I need to completely empty the tank? I didn't know about re-cocking BF filling the tank so thanks. I had planned on checking the velocity where it is now, turning the regulator screw a 1/4 turn, taking a shot and checking it all the way down just to have some data. It sounds to me like that won't work in that direction and instead, I need to drain/fill and then check my velocity on the way back up. Do I have that right? Also, if I do empty the tank, is that when I turn the regulator down BF filling? Otherwise I will end up at the same place, right?
Click to expand...
Yeah just degass the rifle with the small screw in the pic rail. Not the front ones as they are the barrel holding screws. Once fully degassed dry fire a few times to get all remaining air out. Then retighten degass screw then screw in the regulator clockwise or in gently stop at the bottom do not force it. Cock the rifle then fill your rifle as you normally would and then you can start turning the reg screw counterclockwise slowly as the reg gauge can shoot up quickly. I think Pumacarl recommended 2000 psi to start with on a 25 caliber. Take these steps slowly and all will go well! Let us know how you do.
 
So with all of the invaluable information I have received concerning the degassing, etc, I pretty much realized that my small pcp compressor was not going to be up to the job of refilling a 300cc tank @ the required pressure. So I called the only dive shop in my town and they can sell me a used tank for $250 w/ some certified life left in it. Although it can only be charged to 3k psi, they have a new compressor coming that will fill to 4500 psi and I can upgrade later. Today I screwed on the Buck Rail suppressor and dry fired the Barra. W/o it, it sounds pretty much like a .22 rifle (loud) and with it, more like a suppressed Gamo Magnum so I am almost in business. Appreciate all of your input! Comments are always welcome.
 
My advice would be to skip buying the tank that can only be filled to 3K, complete waste of time and cash. If you don't want to get your own bigger compressor or carbon fiber bottle yet, get the small GX-E-CS2 compressor for $300, or for an extra $100 the GX-E-L3 compressor to just straight fill your gun, to start with. I know that it is hard to fathom at first, but if you love shooting airguns you don't want to be wasting your money or your time chasing air. It is all part of the sport. Once you have your air supply down, and a chronograph, a laser range finder, and a ballistics app, and you know how to use them, then you are going to want to get or improve on a whole lot of things.
 
Pumacarl said:
My advice would be to skip buying the tank that can only be filled to 3K, complete waste of time and cash. If you don't want to get your own bigger compressor or carbon fiber bottle yet, get the small GX-E-CS2 compressor for $300, or for an extra $100 the GX-E-L3 compressor to just straight fill your gun, to start with. I know that it is hard to fathom at first, but if you love shooting airguns you don't want to be wasting your money or your time chasing air. It is all part of the sport. Once you have your air supply down, and a chronograph, a laser range finder, and a ballistics app, and you know how to use them, then you are going to want to get or improve on a whole lot of things.
Click to expand...
I very much agree, get the pcp compressor!
 
kcender said:
Hey Steven. I got the .25 since I already have a .22 with the HW100 (that's how I justified it!). So the degass screw will bleed off slowly? Also, are you saying I need to completely empty the tank? I didn't know about re-cocking BF filling the tank so thanks. I had planned on checking the velocity where it is now, turning the regulator screw a 1/4 turn, taking a shot and checking it all the way down just to have some data. It sounds to me like that won't work in that direction and instead, I need to drain/fill and then check my velocity on the way back up. Do I have that right? Also, if I do empty the tank, is that when I turn the regulator down BF filling? Otherwise I will end up at the same place, right?
Click to expand...
Screw the regulator clockwise all the way in before filling again. That's correct. Then adjust the regulator counterclockwise slowly in small increments at a time while watching the regulator until your desired pressure is achieved. Start at 2000 psi on a 25 caliber, then chronograph, and go from there. Hang in there you'll get it!
 

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