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Marauder G3, The Things I Do For Fun

Well, I read quite a bit of stuff on matte finishing but there is no definative info on what sprayed on products are compatible with the different versions of carbon fiber. Terminador got back to me, and didn't have any suggestions on how to proceed either. So I glommed on to one guy's idea of just using some #0000 steel wool, and two mintutes later, it looks pretty good. It's not matte, more of a satin, but not glossy either. I don't know why anyone would want a highly reflective finish on a working gun. I guess if you lived under a rock and never saw the sun it wouldn't matter, but that's about it. I didn't take any pics because there are some at the website link I posted. Actually the glossy pics there are accurate, the matte looking pics are not, and even after using steel wool on it, the glossy one doesn't look as matte, somewhere in the middle.
 
I dealt with carbon fiber extensively in the Radio Control industry. Sand it lightly with an ultrafine emery 2000# or finer using water. The water safely suspends the carbon dust. Either sand it in a water bath if you have a container long enough. You’ll have more control if you just keep the shroud wet while you sand it. If the residue is milky, you are just removing the epoxy coating - ideal. If the watery residue turns the color of the carbon, you’re sanding too much and need to stop. If you nick the weave, you can either mix some 2-part epoxy and apply it over the worn area and sand it smooth. If it’s a small nick, you can just use a drop of Thin CA glue (super glue). The epoxy finish is not as hazardous to sand, it’s when you hit the carbon. The key is to keep it wet enough to trap the dust, but not so wet that you can’t see the residue. I’d still use a mask/respirator. I sanded some carbon last week, I did it dry with 3000# paper and only lightly sanded it. You could probably use coarser grit as you’re just knocking the gloss off.
 
Billm said:
I dealt with carbon fiber extensively in the Radio Control industry. Sand it lightly with an ultrafine emery 2000# or finer using water. The water safely suspends the carbon dust. Either sand it in a water bath if you have a container long enough. You’ll have more control if you just keep the shroud wet while you sand it. If the residue is milky, you are just removing the epoxy coating - ideal. If the watery residue turns the color of the carbon, you’re sanding too much and need to stop. If you nick the weave, you can either mix some 2-part epoxy and apply it over the worn area and sand it smooth. If it’s a small nick, you can just use a drop of Thin CA glue (super glue). The epoxy finish is not as hazardous to sand, it’s when you hit the carbon. The key is to keep it wet enough to trap the dust, but not so wet that you can’t see the residue. I’d still use a mask/respirator. I sanded some carbon last week, I did it dry with 3000# paper and only lightly sanded it. You could probably use coarser grit as you’re just knocking the gloss off.
Click to expand...
@Billm Great information. Thank you!
 
Billm said:
I dealt with carbon fiber extensively in the Radio Control industry. Sand it lightly with an ultrafine emery 2000# or finer using water. The water safely suspends the carbon dust. Either sand it in a water bath if you have a container long enough. You’ll have more control if you just keep the shroud wet while you sand it. If the residue is milky, you are just removing the epoxy coating - ideal. If the watery residue turns the color of the carbon, you’re sanding too much and need to stop. If you nick the weave, you can either mix some 2-part epoxy and apply it over the worn area and sand it smooth. If it’s a small nick, you can just use a drop of Thin CA glue (super glue). The epoxy finish is not as hazardous to sand, it’s when you hit the carbon. The key is to keep it wet enough to trap the dust, but not so wet that you can’t see the residue. I’d still use a mask/respirator. I sanded some carbon last week, I did it dry with 3000# paper and only lightly sanded it. You could probably use coarser grit as you’re just knocking the gloss off.
Click to expand...
@Billm, is there an additive method to doing this kind of thing? I'd have rather not reduced any existing material. Could I have just sprayed on some type of matte clear coat? -Thanks
 
Billm said:
I dealt with carbon fiber extensively in the Radio Control industry. Sand it lightly with an ultrafine emery 2000# or finer using water. The water safely suspends the carbon dust. Either sand it in a water bath if you have a container long enough. You’ll have more control if you just keep the shroud wet while you sand it. If the residue is milky, you are just removing the epoxy coating - ideal. If the watery residue turns the color of the carbon, you’re sanding too much and need to stop. If you nick the weave, you can either mix some 2-part epoxy and apply it over the worn area and sand it smooth. If it’s a small nick, you can just use a drop of Thin CA glue (super glue). The epoxy finish is not as hazardous to sand, it’s when you hit the carbon. The key is to keep it wet enough to trap the dust, but not so wet that you can’t see the residue. I’d still use a mask/respirator. I sanded some carbon last week, I did it dry with 3000# paper and only lightly sanded it. You could probably use coarser grit as you’re just knocking the gloss off.
Click to expand...
Bill, I agree with everything you wrote here.

During my life I have also been involved in about every form of RC vehicle. I raced in a National offroad truck series, I built and flew planes, helis (not drones), boats and rock crawlers.

I also handled and manufactured parts from carbon sheet and carbon tubes. Your description of handing and using carbon is spot-on with how I used it.

Here is one of my aerobatic heli builds. It had carbon parts nose to tail.
 
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Pumacarl said:
@Billm, is there an additive method to doing this kind of thing? I'd have rather not reduced any existing material. Could I have just sprayed on some type of matte clear coat? -Thanks
Click to expand...
Two things come to mind. But, if they don’t work you, would probably need to sand them off. I sold tons of Testors Model Master Dullcote. It’s available in brush on or spray. Serious military modelers use it for that flat olive drab armor etc.. There are also sprays for removing the gloss from photos that might work, usually found at Hobby Lobby etc.. Both are thin film protective coatings as well.
 
Billm said:
Two things come to mind. But, if they don’t work you, would probably need to sand them off. I sold tons of Testors Model Master Dullcote. It’s available in brush on or spray. Serious military modelers use it for that flat olive drab armor etc.. There are also sprays for removing the gloss from phots that might work, usually found at Hobby Lobby etc.. Both are thin film protective coatings as well.
Click to expand...
Perfect! Thanks! I always just go to the hardware store and wasn't even thinking about a hobby shop.
 
BBGunn said:
Bill, I agree with everything you wrote here.

During my life I have also been involved in about every form of RC vehicle. I raced in a National offroad truck series, I built and flew planes, helis (not drones), boats and rock crawlers.

I also handled and manufactured parts from carbon sheet and carbon tubes. Your description of handing and using carbon is spot-on with how I used it.

Here is one of my aerobatic heli builds. It had carbon parts nose to tail.
Click to expand...
That’s cool. I owned a couple of stores and was the online hobby shop for the Military exchange shopping system for years. I tried to bring airguns into my stores, but ended up bringing in Green Gas airsoft guns and Electric M4s etc.. I had couple of Raptors myself and a large paved RC and dirt track. I spent a lot of time sanding and sealing carbon fiber edges LOL. NOTHING WORSE THAN SEEING A $1000 carbon fiber chassis hit a curb at 50mph LOL.
 
Billm said:
That’s cool. I owned a couple of stores and was the online hobby shop for the Military exchange shopping system for years. I tried to bring airguns into my stores, but ended up bringing in Green Gas airsoft guns and Electric M4s etc.. I had couple of Raptors myself and a large paved RC and dirt track. I spent a lot of time sanding and sealing carbon fiber edges LOL. NOTHING WORSE THAN SEEING A $1000 carbon fiber chassis hit a curb at 50mph LOL.
Click to expand...
I totally understand about the crashed builds!

I'll stop with this as I don't want to hijack Pumacarl's thread. :)
 
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Tonight I put on the Terminador carbon fiber shroud and the STO Levitas moderator. I had to remove the barrel to take off the shroud collet. I wasn't expecting that. I had to take off the SWFA scope, that I had just put on, so was a little bit peeved about it.

OK, here's my take on this; the shroud on the gen 3 is screwed onto that collet which in no way is connected and tightened to the block. It is a totally on barrel system, which might actually be more consistent in the long run but it never makes the whole thing 'feel' as solid as actually tightening and compressing the whole shroud with screwing on the moderator up against it and actually pulling on the barrel in the block. I don't know if this will cause poi shifts easier either, it might actually help. Like I said, it feels really rigid now. As far as the weight goes, the original shroud with moderator weighed 6.865oz, and the carbon fiber shroud and moderator weighs 4.3oz. We'll see how it all goes. I had already tested the sound signature of the Levitas and it's the quietest (and lightest) of the bunch, so that's a win for sure.

The SWFA 10x scope weighs 8oz less than the othe other scope I had on too. The gun now weighs 9.75lbs scoped, and does not feel unusually heavy because the weight isn't hanging up front. It has a very steady off hand weight. Without the scope and rings it now weighs exactly 8lbs. Shooting to commence this weekend.



cfss.webp
 
It looks very sleek and sounds like it is a shooter. You’ve done a really nice job, both with your work and promoting the G3. If I had unlimited funds I’d pick one up just based upon this thread. This thread is probably a hidden gem. How many times do you see a thread where a skilled airgun modifier shares his project and has the added value of the actual design engineer contributing to the conversation. Bravo Zulu to both of you, @Pumacarl and @BenjeneerJohn
These threads are what makes HAM my favorite airgun place. Well, second to my backyard.😂🤣😂🎯

* BZ = Navy jargon “Well Done”
 

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