250Z Broken sear 250z. Common problem?

[Northeastbeast]

I recently got a 250z, my first PCP. I got it all set up and was getting ready to put it's first charge in it but I wanted to turn down the regulator first. So I opened the bleed screw then went to dry fire it a couple times. On the second dry fire the trigger was dead. I went to recock it and the hammer wouldn't catch. So I took the stock off and found the sear/hammer catch was broken off at the spring pocket. Is this a common issue with these? I've goggled it and only found one mention of it.

I contacted Barra and am working on getting them to replace the sear. I also ordered one from their website to get one here quicker. If they send me a second one I'd like to have a back up if it happens again. Kinda feeling frustrated with it. I do like the rifle though.

I may design a whole new set of sears for the 250z. This is now becoming a commen issue, and should be addressed. I will start work on this in the morning.

 

[HDODT]

Same for me..., grew up with rifles. I built several 'chuck' rifles on Rem 700 actions on H.S. Precision stocks and Jewel triggers.

With regard to the 250z safety, I never use it either. I never walk with the rifle cocked while hunting. For the 250z I hunt with the single-shot tray so if the shot doesn't happen while I'm on stand I just de-cock the rifle with a pellet in the breech and move to the next spot.

Sounds like you have a system that is safe while you use the rifle so the safety issue isn't a big deal for you.

I fired the 250z on target this morning just to confirm zero is still on. It never changes but you know what I mean. I'm heading out to find a chuck again tomorrow. The 250z sits nicely on my shooting sticks and is easy to hunt with shooting off the turkey seat.

I hadn't thought of decocking with one in the chamber. I'll for sure use that. I'll just have to be careful to not double feed I guess. The sear will be here Friday. I can't wait.

 

[HDODT]

I may design a whole new set of sears for the 250z. This is now becoming a commen issue, and should be addressed. I will start work on this in the morning.

I was thinking it wouldn't be hard to fab one up out of better material. It looks like centered metal is what they use for it and with that spring pocket being so deep it's gotta be really weak right there.

 

[Pumacarl]

It looks like I can get a safety bar from Barra. I'll probably order one just to have the ability to put it all back to stock if I do go that route. I come from shooting powder burners, long range precision type stuff. The safeties on those rifles never gets used. The bolt is always open until I'm on target and ready to shoot. When I'm hunting with a rifle the chamber is usually empty ans i move around. I'm not sure how conducive that method would be with this PCP but I'll figure it out. I like to tinker till things are just how I like them. I appreciate all the advice.

Like I said, DON'T touch the bar, there is absolutely no need. The safety is two pieces that go through the stock. One side of the safety has a shoulder that rests on that bar. THAT is what you take down if your safety won't engage. Even if you take it down too much it won't effect the gun, you just will have to be the safety, unless you order another. Do what you want, but I wouldn't touch the actual trigger group. I don't like downtime.

 

[BBGunn]

Like I said, DON'T touch the bar, there is absolutely no need. The safety is two pieces that go through the stock. One side of the safety has a shoulder that rests on that bar. THAT is what you take down if your safety won't engage. Even if you take it down too much it won't effect the gun, you just will have to be the safety, unless you order another. Do what you want, but I wouldn't touch the actual trigger group. I don't like downtime.

The confusion here is that what you describe as the 2-peice safety is what I have been calling the, 'safety bar'. We are talking about the same piece. In other words, I am not suggesting modification to any of the trigger group levers.

Sorry if my labeling of the '2-piece safety part' as the 'safety bar' was confusing.

 

[Pumacarl]

The confusion here is that what you describe as the 2-peice safety is what I have been calling the, 'safety bar'. We are talking about the same piece. In other words, I am not suggesting modification to any of the trigger group levers.

Sorry if my labeling of the '2-piece safety part' as the 'safety bar' was confusing.

No problem, I understand that you understand, I just don't want anyone else reading this thread to work on the wrong part. A lot of us did originally. There was some really bad stories. The trigger group can be problematic. The saftety work itself is actually one of the easiest fixes ever. It's a tough call to give advice on safeties because people have been sued doing so. It's hard knowing who has the chops to do things carefully on an anonymous internet. Clever people will find a way though!

 

[BBGunn]

No problem, I understand that you understand, I just don't want anyone else reading this thread to work on the wrong part. A lot of us did originally. There was some really bad stories. The trigger group can be problematic. The saftety work itself is actually one of the easiest fixes ever. It's a tough call to give advice on safeties because people have been sued doing so. It's hard knowing who has the chops to do things carefully on an anonymous internet. Clever people will find a way though!

Good point.

 

[HDODT]

Like I said, DON'T touch the bar, there is absolutely no need. The safety is two pieces that go through the stock. One side of the safety has a shoulder that rests on that bar. THAT is what you take down if your safety won't engage. Even if you take it down too much it won't effect the gun, you just will have to be the safety, unless you order another. Do what you want, but I wouldn't touch the actual trigger group. I don't like downtime.

I meant switch/button not bar. I'm thinking I'll just leave the safety out and use other methods to keep it in a safe state until I'm ready to shoot.