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New (last month) tin 177 MRDs, will be transferring to H&N relabeled tin. Started to weight and head sort to better understand variability in POI…first 35 pellets out of the tin 13.70 - 13.10 gr

I throw out the jsb tins, H&N tins thread nicely and stay closed…JSB are typically a fight or way too loose

Any insight into why the JSB web site offers different diameters, but none of the US retailers do? You can get H&N different diameters at Pyramid but not at AoA..... That said, using a pellet gauge on a tin 4.51 mm H&N 177 BM...I have just as many 4.51 as 4.52 and some 4.53s....

SD of 1...in pellet weight? Washed as in dish soap like Dawn? I haven't done that, I do inspect and I do have them in a tin with padded bottom that is moist with "Whistcombe Oil" tc

Well there was zero wind when I decided to grab everything and shoot...I have a flag 2/3rd of the way to the 50 yard targets. Sometimes it was moving slightly and I felt nothing near me, sometimes I felt very slight wind and it wasn't moving. Shot 18 unsorted to allow reg-valve to settle in...

I asked AoA if they could pick me out a nice stock…Rich was very accommodating, but I was quite uncomfortable buying a rifle I never saw in person let alone shoulder and shot ….but here in Emmaus Pa…I really didn’t have a choice, and the hold sensitivity of the R9 and cocking -time and...

Yes its a beautiful rifle, and shoulders (for me) perfectly. I hand rub in Walnut oil (she is over due ). My only “complaint” is the lack of a cheek piece riser…I have found some “kits” that would use the existing walnut cheek and have thought about it…my wood working buddy has the all the...

I initially started increasing regulator outlet pressure to get more ft/s change with the Power Wheel. I was trying to see if I could shoot 177 Heavy, MRD, and Beast without having to change out the hammer spring…I even made a 3.1 mm shim for the LP HS to give it a little more…but even at 190...

both from tins that I was shooting at ~870, then upped the power wheel to ~15 ~970....and POI changed by that much for both, shot >5 BM then 5 Heavies, adjusted scope and alternated between both, both basically landing in the same hole..

Grabbed a couple minutes to shoot the JSB Heavy (10.34) and H&N BM (10.56) at ~970. POI was > 1" higher at 30 yards...did the math, that is not due to the velocity...so it has to be due to the "harmonics", changing the barrel exit point relative to the scope...yes?

I didn't know they were available. I have not shot the heavies at that velocity yet. Hopefully in an hour from now I can ....not going to if it's windy!!!

I didn't not take your comment(s) that way!. I was just trying to give credence to my statement that I am holding true through the shot cycle. Pushing a pellet through with a choked barrel...what am I looking for? I am assuming consistent resistance till the choke? any other insight as to what...

Solo1, everyone greatly appreciate the support, I have been shooting since I was ~8 ....I know that I am holding true through the shot cycle, bipod, bag at the breech, with the 24x at 50 yards, and I am not getting that type of precision with 177 10.34-10.6 ~860-870 ft/s nor did I see that...

I am looking for reasons not to get it…that wasn’t the answer i needed to hear…

Can anyone nswer the question: does the barrel with the tensioner system on it (not including the new rifle body barrel clamp ) comes off "in one piece" so that you don't lose the tension and thus could put a diff barrel in the gun? and then put back the tensioned barrel and have minimal change...

8 ~30 year old oxidized Beeman Silver Jets still available, will let them go for $10 a piece.....plus shipping

I remember being dumb enough to shoot these out of Daisy 760....

Yeah mine is quiet, about the same sound as hitting a starling.

try the Vigoro mulch...only messy when you separate the spent lead, but even that is only as messy as you want it to be via how you do it...I dump it into a bigger box, and shake the lead to the bottom and then transfer the "mulch" out to a new box....

So..further looking at the barrel tensioner...where is the tension created? What two points of the barrel are held so that they can be "pulled" and create tension? I see the "barrel clamp and screws" but how does the "muzzle cap tensioner" apply tension? does this require removal of the air...