bchannell
Well-known member

As I have now had in my use over six GX compressors, several CS2 and CS3 models, and have worked on all of them, so I have some insight into maintenance and use that might be of use to the members.
First, I'm a huge fan of the CS2, it is robust and simple in design and operation. Since I would never walk off and trust a CS3 or other compressor to shut off on it's own, I have to be there and watch it anyway, so no need for auto shutoff in my book. The CS3 is the same design as the CS2, with a simple addition of auto shutoff parts.
Second, these are to fill guns only and any attempt to fill large cylinders is at your own risk. Can it be done, sure! Is it advisable? That's up to you, but that is not what they're designed for. If you are judicious, it can be done, but I have the compressor to fill with, so I have no need for a large cylinder.
The CS2 is so simply designed, that if properly cared for, I can't imagine it would not last quite a long time. The electronics are simple and very well thought out, and the piston and seals are spot on.
If you maintain the compressor, you add much to your odds of it lasting, and I don't care what anyone, even the manufacturer says about that. They may say it never needs lube, but don't bet on it, especially when it's so simple. There are plenty of videos online showing how to disassemble the unit, but even that is not all that necessary. I'd check the gearbox every year or so,check and replenish the gear grease as needed, and not mess with it any more. If you pull the head, then the wrist pin, and remove the piston, clean everything well and regrease and reinstall, you've done wonders for longevity. Silicone or food grade grease for the piston, and really any good bearing/gear grease for the wrist pin. Also remove the pressure block on the bottom front and clean it of rust and install new filters. Do the same for the gauge housing. You've now spend a half hour or so and added to the life of your compressor.
In use, follow the instructions, open the bleed first, start the compressor, and close the bleed. Keep the fill line and gauge block below the gun at all times when filling so that any liquid will stay in the fill line. You will get rust in the fill line at the compressor pressure block and the gauge block, that's a given. If you vent it hard when filling is done, and open it every few months, and clean it up, you shouldn't have any problems with moisture in your guns. I also would open my airgun's cylinder every year or so for inspection. Of all the causes of explosion, which is rare, I would bet many are from unseen aluminum liners oxidizing. An inspection will tell you if your procedures are working for your climate. If you want to add a filter, it's a great idea. I'd personally stick with a filter on the high pressure line, and change the media every 3 months for peice of mind. I wouldn't fool with an inlet moisture filter, unless it's in addition to an outlet filter. Can't hurt, and may do some minimal good.
The very best advice I could give is use nitrogen fed to the compressor. No worry of any moisture, and no filters, except a cotton filter for debris. I use a 40 cu/ft cyl fed to the handle/inlet of my CX2's at 8-9psi and it works great, even fills just a tad faster too. I do a lot of shooting and use about one n2 cyl a month or so. If I'm not tuning or working on airguns, then n2 lasts longer, maybe 2 months. At $16 a exchange, that's pretty cheap, and cheaper than maintaining filters. N2 is not mandatory, obviously, but it's easy. I used strictly air for a good long time and never had a problem, but I also used a filter.
Just a little care, and these units should last and last, and for around $250, they're a steal. I have friends, who i've sold units to, and they abuse them, never use filters, and do no maintenance whatsoever, unless they ask me to do it, and those compressors are working fine, although, I did disassemble them and lube them properly and check out all the connections before letting them go.
First, I'm a huge fan of the CS2, it is robust and simple in design and operation. Since I would never walk off and trust a CS3 or other compressor to shut off on it's own, I have to be there and watch it anyway, so no need for auto shutoff in my book. The CS3 is the same design as the CS2, with a simple addition of auto shutoff parts.
Second, these are to fill guns only and any attempt to fill large cylinders is at your own risk. Can it be done, sure! Is it advisable? That's up to you, but that is not what they're designed for. If you are judicious, it can be done, but I have the compressor to fill with, so I have no need for a large cylinder.
The CS2 is so simply designed, that if properly cared for, I can't imagine it would not last quite a long time. The electronics are simple and very well thought out, and the piston and seals are spot on.
If you maintain the compressor, you add much to your odds of it lasting, and I don't care what anyone, even the manufacturer says about that. They may say it never needs lube, but don't bet on it, especially when it's so simple. There are plenty of videos online showing how to disassemble the unit, but even that is not all that necessary. I'd check the gearbox every year or so,check and replenish the gear grease as needed, and not mess with it any more. If you pull the head, then the wrist pin, and remove the piston, clean everything well and regrease and reinstall, you've done wonders for longevity. Silicone or food grade grease for the piston, and really any good bearing/gear grease for the wrist pin. Also remove the pressure block on the bottom front and clean it of rust and install new filters. Do the same for the gauge housing. You've now spend a half hour or so and added to the life of your compressor.
In use, follow the instructions, open the bleed first, start the compressor, and close the bleed. Keep the fill line and gauge block below the gun at all times when filling so that any liquid will stay in the fill line. You will get rust in the fill line at the compressor pressure block and the gauge block, that's a given. If you vent it hard when filling is done, and open it every few months, and clean it up, you shouldn't have any problems with moisture in your guns. I also would open my airgun's cylinder every year or so for inspection. Of all the causes of explosion, which is rare, I would bet many are from unseen aluminum liners oxidizing. An inspection will tell you if your procedures are working for your climate. If you want to add a filter, it's a great idea. I'd personally stick with a filter on the high pressure line, and change the media every 3 months for peice of mind. I wouldn't fool with an inlet moisture filter, unless it's in addition to an outlet filter. Can't hurt, and may do some minimal good.
The very best advice I could give is use nitrogen fed to the compressor. No worry of any moisture, and no filters, except a cotton filter for debris. I use a 40 cu/ft cyl fed to the handle/inlet of my CX2's at 8-9psi and it works great, even fills just a tad faster too. I do a lot of shooting and use about one n2 cyl a month or so. If I'm not tuning or working on airguns, then n2 lasts longer, maybe 2 months. At $16 a exchange, that's pretty cheap, and cheaper than maintaining filters. N2 is not mandatory, obviously, but it's easy. I used strictly air for a good long time and never had a problem, but I also used a filter.
Just a little care, and these units should last and last, and for around $250, they're a steal. I have friends, who i've sold units to, and they abuse them, never use filters, and do no maintenance whatsoever, unless they ask me to do it, and those compressors are working fine, although, I did disassemble them and lube them properly and check out all the connections before letting them go.