EVOL Evol .30 5000 psi Burst Disk Thread Pitch?

[Ezana4CE]

The screw and bolts used in the Evol have a parts number and their measurements and sizes listed in the schematics on AAA site. When I went to look for the specifics on the burst disc, all I saw am was a part number C-035-0021-50. My question is, can I buy any old 5k burst disc or do I need to buy something specific as a replacement? I didn’t see this part listed on the AAA site.

Parts – American Air Arms

 

[Bladebum]

When mine causes a problem I'm going to put any old burst disc in there that I have in my parts kit. Reality of this is I don't even have a filling source capable of 5k, not to mention when I fill my gun I am right there watching the guage.

 

[American Air Arms]

The burst disk is a standardized unified burst disk used in paintball, CO2 and industrial applications. 3/8-24 is the thread. I believe the actual spec. comes from the CO2 industry. They are available from many vendors such as Ninja, Gorilla, ANS, etc.

Burst disks are rated +0/-10% meaning an 5k can burst from 4k5 to 5k but in my experience they are subject to fatigue and can pop well below the rating occasionally.

 

[Ezana4CE]

@American Air Arms Thank you. I will order some.

 

[Dairyboy]

I ordered some here

Captain O-Ring HPA/CO2 1.8k / 3k / 5k / 7.5k Burst Disk - 2 Pack (Compressed Air Tank Paintball) [Bonus CO Microfiber Cloth] https://a.co/d/4pNdxXV

 

[Ezana4CE]

Bought some CaptainO-Ring branded 5k burst discs and they don’t fit the same. After screwing one in, the gun still leaks around the burst disc. They don’t screw down flush. As you can see a couple of threads are still visible with it snugged down.


A side-by-side comparison of the new burst disc (left) and the old (right).


Do the threads look damaged on the gun? I can’t see how something like this would happen with the gun stowed away. Should I wrap the treads with Teflon tape or something?

 

[Madeintheuk]

Bought some CaptainO-Ring branded 5k burst discs and they don’t fit the same. After screwing one in, the gun still leaks around the burst disc. They don’t screw down flush. As you can see a couple of threads are still visible with it snugged down.
View attachment 2254

A side-by-side comparison of the new burst disc (left) and the old (right).
View attachment 2255
View attachment 2257
Do the threads look damaged on the gun? I can’t see how something like this would happen with the gun stowed away. Should I wrap the treads with Teflon tape or something?
View attachment 2256

I responded to you on AGN also. I used the exact same buddy disc. It works just fine. Mine sits just like yours pictures. I’m not worried about it.

 

[Dairyboy]

I would clean out the bottom of the well there first. And then don't be afraid to really snug it down. Should be ok

 

[American Air Arms]

I would clean out the bottom of the well there first. And then don't be afraid to really snug it down. Should be ok

Yes, very important to clean the mating surface with IPA or acetone and then add a smear of Ulitmox. Tighten moderately and bubble check. If still bubbling incrementally tighten until the bubbles stop. Do not tighten to death as this will lead to separation of the burst disk components certainly leak.

Teflon tape will not help as the threads no not make the seal, the end surface is the seal.

The best quality are from ANS or Ninja. Others can be very sad.

 

[Madeintheuk]

Ok. So update here. My captain oring burst disc is leaking. I did as Tom said and tightened it a little, then kept going till bubbles stopped. They never did. I ordered a ninja birds disc, and will be installing that instead. I’ll update when it arrives.

 

[Madeintheuk]

Any negatives against removing the burst disc and replacing with a cap screw and oring or delrin seal? I personally don’t have problems with over filling bc I only fill to 250bar anyway. I’ve always been that way, even if a rifle can be filled to 300b. I just don’t see a point in over taxing the hardware if it isn’t needed.

 

[Dairyboy]

Bummer. I guess looking at mine they looked to have a steep cone shape vs the flatter shape of the original. My apologies guys wasn't aware of different shapes on the bottoms. Guess I'll look for some Ninjas

 

[Madeintheuk]

Ok, I’m getting a little peeved with this leak. For shits and giggles I swapped burst discs with my 30 to see if it was my only leak. It is not. My mini is still leaking super slowly, and I’m at my wits end with this thing. The ONLY seals I haven’t replace are internal reg orings, and the reg looks like it’s been beat with an ugly stick when opened before. Not sure I want to damage it more.

 

[Bladebum]

Ok, I’m getting a little peeved with this leak. For shits and giggles I swapped burst discs with my 30 to see if it was my only leak. It is not. My mini is still leaking super slowly, and I’m at my wits end with this thing. The ONLY seals I haven’t replace are internal reg orings, and the reg looks like it’s been beat with an ugly stick when opened before. Not sure I want to damage it more.

Replace those internal seals, not sure what you mean by the reg looking beat up? You mean just the outside of it? I use a wooden dowel to push my reg out to minimize damage. You do still have the valve seals that could definitely be causing it.

And I know it's frustrating, but if you've had the gun apart since you've replaced the seals and you used the viton for the reg body and end block, I would suspect possible micro damage. That is the reason I switched those to the poly seals, just throwing things out there.

 

[Madeintheuk]

Replace those internal seals, not sure what you mean by the reg looking beat up? You mean just the outside of it? I use a wooden dowel to push my reg out to minimize damage. You do still have the valve seals that could definitely be causing it.

And I know it's frustrating, but if you've had the gun apart since you've replaced the seals and you used the viton for the reg body and end block, I would suspect possible micro damage. That is the reason I switched those to the poly seals, just throwing things out there.

Wish those poly seals weren’t out of stock.



If you look closely, you’ll see the damage to the reg body. I haven’t had it apart yet, frnakly, because I don’t know how, but it doesn’t look good.

 

[American Air Arms]

The abrasion is normal when the the tube is repeatedly removed and installed. The anodize is not a match against the titanium tube threads. Unfortunately we cannot use hard anodize on the regulator due to the possible embrittlement of the threads.

Is that a dent above the o-ring?

FYI the brass adjuster DOES NOT remove through the front. You have to split the reg and it removes from the inside.

 

[Madeintheuk]

The abrasion is normal when the the tube is repeatedly removed and installed. The anodize is not a match against the titanium tube threads. Unfortunately we cannot use hard anodize on the regulator due to the possible embrittlement of the threads.

Is that a dent above the o-ring?

FYI the brass adjuster DOES NOT remove through the front. You have to split the reg and it removes from the inside.

That is a dent. Yes. They weren’t friendly with this reg at all.

Thanks for the other info. Turns out my leak isn’t even from the reg or tube orings (see other thread). It was from the reg gauge. Luckily, AOA has them in stock, so I have a new reg and tube gauge on their way to me.

 

[Dairyboy]

Yikes that dent is pretty bad on the reg. The gauge huh? Yeah that can get frustrating chasing orings when it's not them lol

 

[Ezana4CE]

@Madeintheuk That reg looks like it was dropped on a hard surface. Does the dent affect its functionality?

 

[Madeintheuk]

@Madeintheuk That reg looks like it was dropped on a hard surface. Does the dent affect its functionality?

Not that I’ve seen so far. It holds pressure solid, and has never had a poi shift no matter how long it’s sat for. I’ll run it until I do have problems, then I’ll look into replacing it. Don’t fix what ain’t broken right?